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in  2018  with  funding  from 
Getty  Research  Institute 


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Co  my  wife, 
HLXC6  M.  SCftMIDC, 
this  booh 


is  affectionately  inscribed. 


* 


Chapter  i. 


Cf>6  INSPIRHCION. 

ICCIN6  in  the  cafe  of  the  Huditorium  Hn- 
nex  in  Chicago,  watting  for  my  omelet,  X 
allow  my  eyes  to  wander  about  the  room 
and  finally  realize  that  they  are  resting  on  a 
painting  depicting  one  of  the  geyser  forma¬ 
tions  in  the  Yellowstone  park.  X  had  known 
for  years  that  it  was  my  mission  to  go  somewhere  but  not 
until  that  moment  did  X  realize  that  that  somewhere  lay  in 
the  northwestern  part  of  Wyoming  and  was  named  on  the 
map,  “Che  Yellowstone  park”. 

Hrriving  home,  in  Detroit,  X  gathered  up  literature  on 
the  subject  and  for  months  talked,  thought,  and  dreamed  of 
a  trip  through  the  bonders  of  the  Yellowstone.  X  finally 
concluded  to  go  in  Hugust  and  take  my  daughter  6mma 
with  me,  but  found  a  like  yearning  existing  in  the  mind  of 
•prank  pingree  who  desired  his  son  Cverett  (a  miner  in 
Southern  Utah)  to  accompany  him. 

Che  plan  finally  matured  and  on  the  evening  of  Hugust 
31  st,  1901,  the  party  of  four  left  for  Yellowstone  park 
Reservation. 

Sept.  1st.  Chicago,  284  Miles  from  Detroit.  States 
passed  through,  Michigan,  Indiana  and  Illinois.  In  the 
evening  at  10.30,  arrived  at  St.  Paul,  407  miles  from 
Chicago,  having  through  the  day,  passed  through  CCIisconsin 
and  Minnesota.  Hrriving  at  the  depot,  we  saw  looming  up 
in  the  distance  the  gigantic  form  of  our  friend  Sharood,  who, 
in  company  with  his  son  Roy,  escorted  us  to  the  Ryan 
Dotel,  where  we  were  hospitably  received  by  the  landlord 
and  then  conducted  to  elegantly  furnished  rooms.  Che  hotel 


—  8  — 

was  voted  the  “best  ever”  arid  X  derived  some  satisfaction 
from  the  fact  that  the  landlord  is  a  German. 

Sept.  2nd.  Barly  in  the  morning  Sharood  drove  to 
beautiful  Lake  Cono.  One  of  the  most  interesting  sights 
here  were  some  rarely  beautiful  specimens  of  the  Victoria 
Randi,  an  aquatic  plant,  with  leaves  about  four  feet  in 
diameter,  in  the  center  of  one  of  which  leaves  sat  an 
exceptionally  fat  frog.  Caking  advantage  of  the  situation  X 
explained  that  the  frog  on  his  island  was  thriving  as  well 
as  did  General  Shafter  on  the  island  of  Cuba  and  was  no 
doubt  just  as  safe. 

In  the  afternoon  Sharood,  who  makes  shoes,  insisted 
on  taking  us  out  to  show  us  the  State  fair  which  had  just 
been  opened  by  Vice-president  Roosevelt.  On  getting  there 
we  found  that  the  only  reason  he  had  for  taking  us  was  to 
show  us  his  exhibit  of  shoes.  Uncle  frank  diabolically 
suggested  that  one  of  the  shoes  be  cut  in  two  and  exhibited 
in  this  manner  so  that  all  who  passed  might  see  what  the 
shoe  was  really  made  of,  but  Sharood  managed  to  overhear 
the  proposition.  H  subsequent  visit  to  bts  factory  and  the 
discovery  of  a  large  quantity  of  paste-board  showed  the 
reason  for  his  reluctance. 

Ule  insisted  on  visiting  the  farmer's  Bxhibit,  thereby 
getting  us  into  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  for  a  couple  of 
enterprising  salesmen  who  showed  by  their  perseverance 
that  they  were  keen  judges  of  human  nature,  followed  us 
about  the  place  trying  to  sell  Uncle  frank  a  newly  patented 
churn. 

Sept.  3rd.  8n  route  to  Cinnahar.  Co-day  we  passed 
through  JNorth  Dakota  and  Montana,  and  at  fargo  crossed 
the  renowned  Red  River,  the  only  important  river  in  the 
United  States  running  north.  Che  Red  River  Valley  owes 
its  fertility  to  the  fact  that  Lake  Ulinnepeg,  in  which  the 
Red  River  discharges  its  waters,  remains  frozen  long  after 
the  Ice  King  has  released  the  United  States  from  his  grasp 
and  the  waters  of  the  Red  River,  finding  no  outlet,  spread 
themselves  for  miles  over  the  flat  valley  of  the  river, 
fertilizing  it  in  the  same  manner  as  does  the  River  Nile  its 
valley. 


9  “ 


Ht  Bis¬ 
marck  we 
got  our 
first  view 
of  the 
Missouri 
River* 
Ons  gave 
dnclc 
■prank  an 
oppor¬ 
tunity  to 
tell  of  an 
early  trip 

of  his  on  the  Mississippi*  On  this  first  occasion  it  was 
quite  interesting  to  hear  of  the  details  of  how  he  and 
some  others  managed  to  get  a  square  meal  on  what,  ac¬ 
cording  to  his  story,  must  have  been  a  veritable  ship  of 
famine*  Later  as  the  days  wore  on  and  by  repetition  the 
story  lost  its  interest* 

In  the  evening,  the  sun,  as  it  usually  does  in  that 
country,  set  in  the  west,  but  what  was  unusual  was  that 
banks  of  clouds  had  massed  themselves  on  the  western 
horizon,  and  which  afterwards,  while  our  train  was  speeding 
along  the  southern  bank  of  the  turbulent  Yellowstone, 
treated  us  to  a  most  magnificent  electrical  display*  'Cbc 
night  was  inky  dark,  except  when  flashes  of  lightning  sprang 
from  cloud  to  cloud  and  for  an  instant  showed  the  racing 
Yellowstone,  with  its  background  of  ever  changing  moun¬ 
tains  and  valleys* 

'Cbcrc  had  been  no  rain  for  months  but  when  we  retired 
a  slight  sprinkling  gave  promise  of  a  welcome  rain  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  parched  earth* 

Sept*  4tb.  Cde  should  have  arrived  at  Livingstone, 
1 007  miles  from  St*  Paul,  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning 
and  when  we  arose  at  seven  o'clock  we  interestedly  listened 
to  a  learned  dissertation  by  the  Sly  Girl  upon  the  change  of 
the  rock  formation  we  were  now  in  from  that  which  we 
saw  when  we  retired*  Hccording  to  her  story,  no  doubt 


to  — 


from  one  of  the  school  geographies,  we  had  originally  been 
amid  hills  that  had  been  formed  by  a  great  flood  of  water 
but  we  were  now  in  the  Obsidian  formation*  lust  as  we 
bad  all  become  impressed  with  the  fact  and  were  marvelling 
at  the  wonders  of  civilization  which  enabled  us  to  pass  from 
one  or  more  centuries  of  time  to  another  in  a  few  hours, 
and  each  and  every  one  of  us  “saw  the  point”,  the  conductor 
came  through  the  car  and  told  us  that  during  the  night  we 
had  made  exactly  four  miles,  as  at  foraytbe  the  track  had 
been  washed  out  by  the  heavy  rain  and  it  bad  taken  the  train 
crew  all  night  to  repair  the  damage*  6mma  without 
comment  lead  the  way  to  the  dining  car* 

<de  arrived  at  Livingstone  at  t  *20  and  there  changed 
car  for  a  further  fifty-seven  mile  ride  by  rail  to  Cinnabar 
and  from  there  by  team  seven  miles  to  Mammoth  Springs 
fiotel,  where  we  arrived  at  five  o'clock*  Che  altitude  of 
Livingstone  is  4600  ft* 


Chapter  2. 


INCO  €56  ^6LLO«lSCOJNre. 

GHTIhiG  Livingstone  one  enters  fairy¬ 
land  through  an  enormous  gateway. 
Ohs  gateway  was  made  by  a  river 
forcing  its  way  through  a  mountain  and 
it  is  known  as  “Che  Gate  of  the 
Mountains”.  Cbrougb  it  pours  the  river, 
fresh  from  the  eternal  snows  bach  in  the  mountains  and 
from  a  great  lake,  a  vast  reservoir  into  which  the  melting 
snow  banks  drizzle  in  a  million  streamlets,  from  the 
wondrous  canyon  between  whose  grandly  sculptured  and 
colored  walls  it  throws  itself  in  an  ecstasy  of  fury. 

Hfter  having  passed  through  this  gate  of  the  mountains, 
one  is  in  paradise  Talley.  Che  great  mountains,  the  very 
temples  of  the  Gods,  loom  high  above.  Mighty  Canyons, 
ragged,  forest  garbed,  deep,  and  fascinating  have  been  gouged 
from  their  very  vitals.  Ht  this  point  an  elderly,  comfort¬ 
able  looking  official,  provided  by  the  park  Hssociation, 
steps  into  the  car  and  in  well  chosen  words  calls  the 
attention  of  the  tourist  to  the  various  points  of  beauty. 
Listening  to  bis  calm,  even  tones,  and  noting  bis  kindly 
countenance,  one  would  not  suspect  that  this  man  had 
passed  through  an  ordeal  so  trying  that  but  few  men  have 
ever  felt  the  agony  that  must  have  been  bis. 

Hway  back  in  the  early  days  of  the  first  visitors  of  the 
park,  this  man  bad  remained  one  winter  in  charge  of  one  of 
the  so-called  hotels.  <Hitb  him  was  bis  young  wife  and 
their  only  child.  Hlong  in  the  winter  the  wife  was  stricken 
with  sickness  and  the  anxious  husband  saw  her  fade  away, 
until  at  last  inexorable  death  laid  claim  to  her.  <ilitb  bis 


12 


own  hands  he  dug  for  her  a  grave  out  in  the  deep  snow  and 
ice  and  to  this  day,  while  all  know  the  story  of  his  faded 
dream,  not  even  the  roughest  cowpuncher  or  mountaineer 
will  allude  to  it  in  his  presence* 

Che  Talley  becomes  constricted,  forming  a  small 
rugged  canyon  that  but  paves  the  way  for  the  grander 
visions  which  in  the  days  to  follow  are  to  break  upon  the 
eye*  Cbere  stands  emigrant  peak,  noble  and  of  august 
mien,  thrusting  itself  snow  crowned  to  a  height  of  1 0,600 
feet* 

Just  before  entering  Cinnabar  we  saw  Cinnabar 
Mountain  with  its  “Devil's  Slide"  which  caused  me  to 
wonder  whether  the  Devil  had  drawn  any  slivers  in  his 
descent* 

On  our  train  was  a  Raymond  party  and  the  experienced 
traveler  knows  what  that  means*  appropriation  of  all  the 
good  seats,  of  all  the  good  places,  of  all  the  food  in  sight, 
and  Uncle  frank's  one  ambition  was,  that  we  in  some  way 
manage  to  elude  them*  Chts  was  accomplished  by  hiring  a 
separate  coach  and  spurring  the  lanky  Jehu  to  unusual 
effort  by  questioning  his  ability  to  pass  the  team  which 
had  preceeded  us*  F)e  succeeded  but  the  lion  once  aroused 
was  difficult  to  soothe  and  he  scarcely  gave  us  time  to  view 
electric  peak,  11,100  feet  high  and  the  collection  of  low, 
and  in  many  cases,  mud  roofed  houses  known  as  the  town 
of  “Gardiner"*  from  there  on  we  skirted  the  banks  of  the 
Gardiner  River  where  spires  and  pinnacles  formed  con¬ 
spicuous  objects*  the  most  striking  of  which  is  Cagle  JVest 
Crag,  upon  which  the  parent  bird  was  feeding  its  brood  of 
young  eagles,  whose  protruding  heads  could  be  seen  and 
whose  plaintive  cries  were  plainly  heard* 

Hrrivtng  at  Mammoth  Springs  F)otel  we  procured 
chilly,  dreary  rooms  in  the  attic  and  as  this  hotel  is  not 
provided  with  an  elevator,  the  climb  was  anything  but 
agreeable  for  the  two  heavy  weights,  altitude  to  be  con¬ 
sidered*  Hfter  a  hasty  wash  we  descended  to  the  dining 
room  and  were  served  with  as  poor  an  excuse  for  a  meal  as 
could  be  found  in  many  a  day's  travel*  Che  service,  if  such 
a  thing  could  be  possible,  was  poorer  than  the  meal.  Che 


only  satisfaction  was  derived  from  the  fact  that  we  were 
ahead  of  the  Raymond  party,  and  that  in  this  case  their 
meal  would  be  no  improvement  on  our  own.  H  party  sitting 
at  our  table  who  had  about  finished  his  meal  when  we  sat 
down,  telling  us  that  his  coffee  had  been  warm  when  be 
received  it,  ours  being  cool,  and  the  deduction  was  that  if 
the  progression  continue  the  Raymond  party  would  have 
Coffee  Ice  by  the  time  it  got  around  to  its  meal. 

Hdjourning  to  the  broad  veranda  we  found  a  gentleman, 
surrounded  by  a  concourse  of  listeners,  who  announced  him¬ 
self  as  prof,  von  Catzburg,  travelling  through  the  park  in 
the  interest  of  some  magazine.  Che  professor  wore  the 
necessary  spectacles,  but  observation  revealed  the  fact  that 
when  be  wanted  to  see  anything  he  looked  over  or  under 
them.  In  addition  he  wore  a  soiled  collar,  green  plaid 
necktie,  prince  Hlbert  coat  and  trousers  which  either  shame 
bad  caused  to  shrink  in  an  unusual  manner  or  bad  been 
intended  for  somebody  with  shorter  legs  than  the  self-styled 
professor  possessed.  It  was  amusing  to  notice  the  interest 
everybody  took  in  the  opening  remarks  of  prof.  Red  Neck, 
as  I  baptized  him  (on  account  of  the  unusual  scarlet  hue  of 
that  part  of  bis  anatomy)  but  bow  one  by  one  his  auditors 
managed  to  escape  him  until  finally  only  one  listener  remained, 
be  being  held  fast  by  a  particularly  safe  button  of  hie  coat. 

Hs  wc  bad  supper  early,  we  walked  about  and  viewed 
with  amazement  a  large  fence  built  entirely  of  6lk  horns. 
Chen  over  to  so-called  Cerrace  Mountain.  Bvcn  from  the 
piazza  of  the  hotel  the  terraces  present  a  remarkable 
appearance  and  as  we  approach  them  the  singularity  of  their 
origin  and  appearance  becomes  more  and  more  pronounced, 
but  as  we  climb  the  slopes  and  view  the  bowls  of  steaming 
rainbow  colored  waters 

“Like  thistledown, 

Che  vapory  clouds  float  down  in  her  peaceful  sky." 

<He  examine  the  terrace  fronts  with  their  wondrous 
patterns  of  etchings  and  bead  work,  and  stand  in  open-eyed 
amazement  at  what  seems  a  miracle  of  creation.  <jQbat  one 
sees  here  is  found  upon  successive  terraces  and  is  reached  by 
easy  gradations  and  by  footpaths  or  trails. 


—  14  — 

Liberty  Cap  impressed  Uncle  frank  (who  comes  of 
revolutionary  stock)  as  most  remarkable,  whereas  X,  who 
am  more  or  less  of  a  heathen,  am  impressed  by  the  terraced 
altar  of  'Jupiter  and  Minerva*  Cupids  Cave  caused  6mma 
to  peer  anxiously  into  its  darker  depths  but  what  she  saw 
she  did  not  tell  and  the  chronicler  is  devoid  of  imagination* 
6ven  so  early  in  the  program  Uncle  frank,  Bverett  and 
Cmma  developed  an  inclination  to  take  foolhardy  risks  in 
getting  close  to  the  edges  of  precipices,  which  cause  me  to 
stand  back  and  tremble  and  only  earnest  entreaty  on  my 
part  induces  the  venturesome  ones  to  desist* 

Hfter  such  minor  incidents  as  stepping  into  a  hot  pool, 
getting  trousers  and  dresses  discolored,  slipping  down  steep 
declivities  twenty  and  thirty  feet  high,  which  caused  Uncle 
frank  to  grunt  at  each  step  and  me  to  imitate  the  crawfish, 
that  is,  walk  down  backwards,  we  returned  to  the  hospitable 
tavern  described  above* 

In  the  evening,  our  guide,  fitzgerald  of  Gardiner,  makes 
bis  appearance  and  the  details  of  equipment  for  the  trip  are 
carefully  gone  into  and  arranged  for* 

fitz,  as  be  is  soon  styled,  is  worthy  of  more  than  passing 
notice*  F>e  looks  fifty-five  years  of  age,  but  acknowledges 
that  65  winters  have  passed  over  his  head  and  left  bis  hair 
the  color  of  the  driven  snow*  Call,  spare,  square  of 
shoulder,  with  eagle's  nose  and  eyes  which  strike  him  who 
looks  into  them  as  reflecting  a  soul  calm  and  self  contained* 
Che  days  of  closer  intimacy  brought  out  the  fact  that  those 
eyes  were  of  the  keenest  and  that  nothing  escaped  their 
piercing  glance*  FKs  skin,  the  color  of  an  Indian's,  through 
which  the  ruddy  glow  of  health  attested  the  benefit  derived 
from  a  life  close  to  nature*  ^ears  of  his  early  days  were 
spent  in  conducting  parties  over  the  plains  and  through  the 
mountain  fastnesses  of  the  Grow,  ]Vez  perces,  and  Sioux 
Indians  and  with  many  an  interesting  tale  of  reminiscence 
did  he  while  away  an  otherwise  tedious  half  hour  of  the 
following  days  or  evenings* 


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Chapter  3* 


R6HDT  CO  MHRCF>, 

6PC,  5th,  In  the  morning  we  are  awakened 
by  the  “Reveille”  which  sounds  to  us  from 
the  nearby  post  and  the  bugle  plainly  said 
according  to  army  tradition : 

“I  can't  get  'em  up,  X  can't  get  'em  up, 

X  can't  get  'em  up  in  the  morning; 

X  can't  get  'em  up,  X  can't  get  'em  up, 

X  can't  get  'em  up  at  all, 

Che  corporal's  worse  than  the  private, 

F>e  won't  obey  the  call; 

Che  sergeant's  worse  than  the  corporal 
Hnd  the  captain's  worse  than  all,” 

<Obik  donning  our  traveling  suits  we  look  out  of  the 
window  and  see  a  squad  of  cavalry,  the  men  in  white 
overalls  and  every  horse  white,  briskly  trotting  by  on  their 
way  to  the  springs  to  water  the  horses* 

Hfter  a  hasty  breakfast,  we  adjourned  to  the  open  air 
where  our  cavalcade  was  awaiting  us,  Hn  inspection 
showed  five  horses  in  the  charge  of  fitz  and  a  driver  with 
a  wagon  which  was  to  carry  the  necessary  baggage  and 
equipments  and  had  a  seat  reserved  for  such  of  the  party  as 
might  desire  to  take  some  other  position  than  that  which 
horseback  riding  brings  about,  <Oe  baptized  this  part  of 
the  outfit  “the  ambulance”, 

Che  horses  were  of  the  usual  broncho  type,  the  accoutre¬ 
ments  common  to  the  west;  heavy  curb  bit  and  cow-boy 
saddle,  which  to  the  inquiring  touch  seemed  suspiciously 


7  ~ 


bard,  and  a  lot  of  strings  banging  from  each  saddle,  tbc 
uses  of  which  were  to  developc  later  on* 

Hbout  this  time,  tbe  manager  of  tbc  hotel,  a  Mr.  Dean, 
sleek  and  wellfed,  appeared  and  apologized  for  tbe  poor 
accomodations  given  tbe  party,  telling  them  that  four  rooms 
bad  been  reserved  for  them,  but  that  owing  to  tbc  indistinct¬ 
ness  of  my  bandwriting  in  registering,  tbe  party  bad  been 
unrecognized  and  assigned  to  tbe  attic.  It  is  needless  to 
say  that  tbe  discovery  of  this  error  produced  no  reduction 
in  tbe  bill  but  a  promise  from  Mr.  Dean  that  be  would 
advise  all  other  stopping  places  along  tbc  road  of  our 
itinerary  and  that  tbe  best  of  accomodation  would  there¬ 
after  be  ours. 

Qncle  frank  at  this  time  almost  broke  me  up  by  laughing 
in  tbe  wrong  place* 

On  tbe  porch  I  met  a  woman  in  black  with  a  lean  and 
hungry  look  who  with  her  husband  bad  previously  attracted 
my  attention,  she  because  of  tbe  melancholy  which  seemed 
to  prevade  her  entire  being  and  be  because  I  bad  never  ob¬ 
served  him  to  smile*  X  intended  to  speak  and  offer  my 
condolences  but  a  look  from  tbe  man  who  took  himself 
seriously  caused  me  to  retreat. 

<tlitb  an  au  revoir  to  Liberty  Cap,  tbe  horses  on  a  trot, 
which  all  voted  a  most  uncomfortable  gait,  we  moved 
rapidly  along  toward  Bunsen  peak*  Hs  we  ride  past  tbe 
terraces,  new  beauties  are  seen  from  tbe  southern  side  and 
tbe  significance  of  tbe  name  “pulpit  Ccrrace”,  applied  to 
one  of  them,  now  appears  in  full  force*  Hs  we  ride  along 
we  look  upon  tbe  landscape  with  interest.  On  tbe  left,  low 
lying,  is  flat  topped  Mt*  Gverts,  so  named  after  tbe  man 
who  bad  been  lost  for  almost  a  month  and  was  finally 
found,  crazed,  upon  tbe  summit*  Bverett,  our  young  friend, 
claims  that  bis  fame  has  preceded  him  and  that  tbc 
mountain  bad  really  been  named  after  him.  Straight  ahead 
rises  Bunsen  peak,  honoring  tbe  name  of  tbe  celebrated 
German  Chemist  who  has  given  us  tbe  best  theory  of  tbe 
geysers.  H  few  months  ago  tbe  government  constructed  a 
new  road  between  Mammoth  Springs  and  tbe  Golden  Gate* 
Xt  is  an  unusually  fine  specimen  of  road  building  and  at 


—  i8  — 


Silver  Gate  is  in  the  midst  of  as  unique  a  rock  land  as  one 
will  ever  see* 

$Ue  think  of  goblins,  Dendrtc  Budson  and  his  nine  pine 
bowlers,  and  are  almost  prepared  to  see  another  Rip  Tan 
CCItnhle  rise  up*  Now  we  are  within  dungeon  walls  and  to 
our  left  there  is  the  sentry  and  we  feel  that  this  must  be 
the  Golden  Gate  and  a  wonderful  mountain  gate  it  is*  Che 
so-called  Sentry  is  but  a  column  of  rock  about  twelve  feet 
high*  Che  road  twists  about  so  that  we  obtain  many  an 
interesting  view  of  the  gorge.  "Co  cap  the  climax  we  come 
full  upon  beautiful  Rustic  falls  at  the  very  head  of  the 
canyon.  Down  it  glides,  coming  from  the  wide  green  valley 
that  opens  up  before  us,  into  the  rockier,  gloomier  shadows 
of  the  gorge,  where  it  burrows  between  the  rocks  at  the 
bottom  of  the  ravine.  Che  traveler  is  prevented  from 
falling  over  the  precipice  by  small  stones  piled  upon  one 
another  so  as  to  form  a  barrier*  Uncle  frank  leans  upon 
it  and  Bverett  attempts  to  go  him  one  better  by  standing 
upon  it  and  only  the  most  urgent  insistence  from  me  induced 
them  to  step  back  to  safe  ground*  Riding  on  we  come  to 
Swan  Lake  and  the  Mountain  range  back  of  it  is  the 
Gallatins.  'Just  south  of  Hntler  peak  comes  Bannock  peak, 
so  named  because  the  trail  of  the  Bannock  Indians  ran 
across  its  foothills. 

Che  Indians  called  the  entire  region  of  the  T^llowstone 
“Ulbite  Man's  Dell"  and  scarcely  entered  into  it. 

Dere,  close  to  the  Lake,  we  come  across  our  first  game, 
a  flock  of  wild  geese  who  are  so  fearless  that  they  cannot 
be  induced  to  rise  in  flight  even  by  riding  toward  them, 
further  on  we  come  to  an  Hpollonaris  spring  where  we 
quaff  a  draught  of  this  deliciously  charged  water*  It  lies 
deep  in  the  forest  to  the  left  of  the  road  and  seems  to 
spring  from  no  where  and  immediately  loses  itself  among 
the  stones*  Riding  -along  we  skirt  the  Obsidian  Cliff,  two 
hundred  or  more  feet  high  of  natural  volcanic  glass  which 
was  once  used  by  the  Indian  of  these  regions  as  material 
for  arrow  heads.  Ht  the  base  of  the  cliff  and  running 
along  the  road  is  Beaver  Lake*  Cbe  irregular  dam  of  the 
beavers  is  readily  traced  and  over  toward  the  other  shore  is 


.  .COPYRIGHT ,  >^2,  "BY1 
DETROIT  PHOTOGRAPHIC 


LOWES  FALLS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE 


20 


a  conical  beaver  bouse*  passing  Cwin  Lakes,  which  though 
twins  are  not  of  the  same  color,  we  come  to  the  Devil's 
frying  pan,  and  bow  it  does  sputter  and  boil.  TZbis  is  the 
first  evidence  we  see  of  the  phenomena  of  the  geysers*  ”Che 
frying  pan  and  some  other  springs  of  the  same  nature, 
which  are  occasionally  seen,  are  forerunners  of  what  we  will 
see  at  the  Norris  Basin  which  we  reach  at  two  o'clock* 

Wic  all  feel  the  effect  of  this,  our  first  twenty  mile  ride 
and  one  of  the  party  at  least  thinks  of  “Gaits  Hjar"* 


Chapter  4* 


CF>6  eMeRHLD  ISL6* 

HT6  you  ever  met  a  chattering,  hospitable 
Irishman  who  had  been  gathering  a  repertoire 
of  funny  things  to  say  to  the  traveler,  finding 
security  in  the  thought  that  none  would  ever 
return?  “$Qby  my  dear  friend,  you're  looking 
better  than  ever"  and  “Cdbere  did  I  meet 
you  before  ?  ^our  face  is  so  very  familiar"  and  other 
expressions  showed  that  Larry,  the  irrepressible  Larry  was 
one  of  the  fortunates  who  bad  licked  the  Blarney  Stone* 
aP  to  this  season  be  had  been  living  in  tents  but  the  hotel 
company  bad  built  him  a  frame  hotel  and  deeply  did  be  feel 
bis  importance* 

Hfter  luncheon  which,  Larry  told  us,  bad  been  prepared 
by  bis  “french  Chef  from  Cork"  and  a  request  to  eat  every¬ 
thing  but  to  leave  the  dishes,  Larry  invited  us  out  to  see 
the  “Geezers"  as  be  pronounced  it,  and  we  set  out  to  view 
the  curiosities  of  this  neighborhood*  Our  guide  at  this 
place  is  a  Swiss,  who  calls  himself  “Sepp"  which  is  an 
abbreviation  of  'Joseph*  Hdvancing  a  few  hundred  paces 
we  can  view  from  the  elevation  the  entire  stream  baked 
region  which  awaits  our  inspection*  paint-pots,  bubbling 
springs,  the  Devils  Ink-stand  and  a  few  minor  geysers  all 
claim  our  attention.  Che  crust  is  in  many  places  quite  thin 
and  appears  dangerous* 

planks  are  laid  upon  the  ground  so  as  to  make  the 
walking  safe*  One  very  large  boiling  caldron  is  called  the 
“Boiler"*  Cbere  arc  others  about  spurting  streams  of 
water,  some  of  them  no  larger  than  a  pencil* 


—  22 


Sepp  told  us  he  had  crossed  over  the  spot  where  the 
“Boiler”  now  rages  about  20  minutes  before  the  earth  broke 
down  and  formed  the  basin  in  which  it  seethes*  Not  far 
from  it  there  had  been  another  similar  geyser  formation 
called  the  “Growler”  but  immediately  upon  the  appearance 
of  the  “Boiler”  the  “Growler”  became  extinct* 


fit z  brings  our  team  and  wagon  and  we  take  a  side  trip 
to  the  Virginia  Cascades*  <de  return  to  Larry's  hospitable 
roof  and  enjoy  what  we  afterwards  agreed  was  the  best 
meal  served  us  in  the  Vellowstone  park* 

6mma  decided  she  would  take  a  bath  and  as  dncle 
frank  followed  suit  they  intrusted  themselves  to  the 
guidance  of  Larry  who  went  ahead  with  the  lamp,  leading 
them  through  a  field  in  which  the  tree  stumps  were  still 
standing  to  what  it  called  the  laundry,  one  end  of  which  is 
fitted  up  for  bath  purposes*  Not  many  people  have  had  the 
experience  of  being  asked  to  “Look  out,  don't  fall  over  the 
tree  stumps”  in  going  to  their  bathrooms*  But  the  bath¬ 
room  was  clean  and  the  water  hot,  and  the  satisfaction 


COPYRIGHT,  1906,  BY 

DETROIT  PUBLISHING  C 


—  M  - 

derived  from  the  soaking  of  the  hot  and  fevered  limbs  was 
great* 

Hfterwards  we  spent  an  hour  listening  to  Larry's 
yarns*  F>is  laundryman  is  a  Chinaman  weighing  94  pounds* 
F>is  cook  although  called  "a  frenchman  from  Cork"  is  in 
reality  an  Hustrian  and  while  we  cannot  admit  Larry's 
claim  that  he  has  seventeen  employees  and  everyone  of  them 
of  a  different  nationality,  we  must  say  that  his  retinue  is  a 
fair  illustration  of  how  mixed  the  population  of  the  country 
is,  over  which  the  stars  and  stripes  wave* 

On  divesting  myself  of  my  clothing  preparatory  to 
retiring,  an  examination  shows  my  cuticle  is  not  sufficiently 
hard  to  stand  daily  horse -back  tours  of  from  twenty  to 
thirty  miles  upwards*  Bverett  comes  to  my  relief  with 
some  liniment  prescribed  by  a  doctor  in  Windsor,  the  use  of 
which  brought  me  to  the  conclusion  that  he  might  have 
sought  medical  advice  nearer  home  and  fared  better*  for 
ten  minutes  after  the  application  X  experienced  the  most 
excruciating  pain*  Hn  army  cavalry  officer  whom  I  met 
later  on  advised  the  use  of  vaseline  in  such  cases  and  X  want 
to  say  right  here  to  any  intending  equestrian,  provide  your¬ 
self  with  a  jar  of  vaseline  even  before  you  get  a  horse* 

Bright  and  early  next  morning  we  started  for  our  next 
station,  the  fountain  f)otel*  Our  way  leads  us  past  Monu¬ 
ment  6eyser,  through  Gibbon  Canyon  to  the  Beryl  Springs* 
Hbout  this  time  X  find  it  important  to  examine  the  horses* 
Somebody  (and  X  concluded  that  it  was  right  after  he  had 
taken  a  twenty  mile  horseback  ride  on  a  broncho)  has 
established  the  fact  that  while  the  brain  of  a  man  is  equal 
to  the  28th  part  of  the  weight  of  his  body,  the  brain  of  a 
horse  is  only  equal  to  the  400th  part  of  his  body*  Uncle 
frank's  mount  was  named  Kate,  probably  because  of  her 
lamblike  steady  disposition*  Che  day's  acquaintance  added 
to  her  name  and  she  was  from  now  on  known  as  Grunting 
Kate*  Fjer  intelligence  was  marvelous*  She  would  recognize 
another  horse  changing  its  gait  at  a  distance  of  two  to 
three  hundred  feet  and  immediately  follow  suit*  Ulhen  the 
change  consisted  of  going  out  of  a  trot  into  a  canter  or  lope 
Uncle  frank's  face  was  diffused  with  smiles*  But  when 


25  — 


the  reverse  was  the  case  and  she  struck  a  gait  which  fitz 
called  a  trot  and  Uncle  frank  a  “thump”  it  would  first 
assume  a  look  of  surprise,  then  of  disappointment  and 
finally  of  sorrow* 

Bmma's  horse  was  flattered  by  the  poetic  name  of  Bird 
and  a  bird  be  was,  long  rangy,  steady  gait  and  intelligent  in 
fact,  the  pick  of  the  troop*  Gverett's  horse  already  showed 
signs  of  fatigue  and  he  viewed  with  alarm  the  prospect  of 
being  obliged  to  walk  or  ride  in  the  ambulance*  My  horse 
was  dubbed  Muggins*  Ulby,  surpasses  understanding  but 
Muggins  he  was  and  if  that  was  any  reflection  on  his 
character  or  morality  X  agreed  with  the  name,  fitz  rode 
what  was  left*  Chat  he  was  not  entirely  pleased  became 
clear  to  us  when  we  observed  him  digging  bis  spurs  into 
the  sides  of  what  he  called  a  very  valuable  horse  when 
sitting  around  the  camp-fire  and  talking  about  him  in  the 
evening,  but  when  astride  other  names  and  qualities  were 
charged  which  would  not  look  well  in  print* 

far  ahead  of  us  we  saw  a  soldier  on  horseback  driving 
a  mule  down  the  road  toward  us.  t3be  soldier  frantically 
motioned  to  us  to  give  him  the  road  and  knowing  the 
perversity  of  the  burros  and  the  likelihood  of  its  bolting  up 
the  hill  at  our  appearance  we  all  rode  to  one  side  excepting 
6mma  who  kept  straight  along  on  a  lope*  TIbe  expected 
happened,  at  a  place  when  the  ground  was  covered  with 
boulders  the  burro  started  uphill  with  the  soldier  after  it* 

H  stream  of  oaths  and  pet  epithets  came  from  bis 
mouth,  directed  at  the  burro  of  course  and  not  at  6mma. 

Ulben  riding  along  the  Gibbon  River  which  is  one  of 
the  rivers  “along  which  the  travelers  ride  and  in  which  the 
trout  are  said  to  hide”  we  saw  several  rocks  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream  out  of  which  hot  water  welled  and  sputtered* 
5de  arrived  at  fountain  F>otcl  after  a  twenty-two  mile  ride. 


Chapter  5. 


€F)6  HRMT 


ICR  Bverett  I  bad  remained  behind  to  visit 
Capt.  Lindsay  who  bad  charge  of  a  camp  of 
cavalry  near  the  hotel.  Che  captain's  salute 
was  truly  western.  “<jdell,  boys,  I  would 
like  to  ask  you  in  to  take  a  drink  but  for 
the  first  time  in  a  long  while  I  have  run  out 
of  whiskey  and  if  you  have  such  a  thing  as  a  drink  of 
whiskey  about  you  and  will  share  it  with  me  you  will  save 
the  life  of  a  dying  man".  Of  course  the  flask  was  forth¬ 
coming  and  good  health  and  a  pleasant  trip  pledged  all 
around. 

Shortly  after  leaving  the  captain  we  forded  Nez  perces 
Creek,  on  the  further  bank  of  which  stood  a  rude  log  house 
which  fitz  bad  built  years  ago  for  the  state  of  Cdyoming 
and  which  was  the  first  prison  in  that  section,  proving  that 
even  twenty  years  ago  civilization  bad  found  its  way  into 
this  country  of  solitude.  Che  creek  received  its  name  be¬ 
cause  the  JVez  perces  Indians  bad  come  to  this  point  and 
turned  back  when  pursued  by  the  U.  S.  troops. 

CQben  nearing  the  fountain  Rotel  we  saw  some  dark 
objects  walking  around  in  a  field  and  on  coming  closer  we 
found  that  they  were  some  black  bears  that  had  strolled 
down  from  the  mountain  and  were  prowling  about  looking 
for  something  to  eat.  One  of  the  bears  bad  in  some  way 
gotton  its  bead  and  one  leg  through  an  iron  hoop  and  was 
unable  to  again  remove  it.  It  was  evidently  bothering  him 
some  as  be  was  perceptibly  lame.  Che  people  about  told  us 
that  they  were  expecting  two  Montana  cowboys  who  were 
going  to  lasso  the  bear  and  remove  the  hoop. 


—  27  — 


CClhcn  we  arrived  at  the  hotel  we  found  Clncle  frank 
and  6mma  seated  comfortably  in  arm-chairs  on  the  porch 
and  a  handsome  young  military  surgeon  paying  strict 
attention  to  the  6ly  girl.  Che  doctor  was  under  the 
weather  and  on  a  furlough  and  just  like  ordinary  people 
impressively  told  us  that  if  be  would  take  care  of  himself 
be  would  be  in  bed  but  he  did  not  like  being  in  bed,  etc.,  etc. 
Che  doctor  was  prescribing  for  himself  and  the  post 
surgeon  said  that  the  reason  be  did  not  recover  sooner  was 
because  be  bad  either  a  fool  of  a  doctor  or  a  fool  of  a 
patient. 

H  poor  lunch  was  only  made  bearable  by  the  presence 
of  the  lady  whom  X  have  described  as  “the  lady  in  black, 
with  the  hungry  look”.  Call,  sylph-like,  olive-complected, 
with  a  face  sadly  wistful  and  eyes  that  looked  appealingly, 
my  imagination  explained  her  demeanor  through  the 
appearance  of  her  husband,  one  of  the  those  cold,  spbinxlikc 
men  who  take  themselves  seriously  but  are  really  a  joke  to 
all  except  those  who  are  compelled  to  endure  their  presence. 


Ole  afterward  took  our  team  and  in  company  of  the 
doctor  drove  to  fire-F)ole  Lake,  one  of  the  greatest  curios¬ 
ities  of  which,  is,  what  looks  like  a  flame,  that  seems  to  lick 

in  every 
direction 
fully  25 
feet  below 
the  surface 
of  the  lake. 
]Vear  here 
is  the 
fountain 
Geyserand 
the  most 
beautiful 
paint -pots 
we  have 
yet  seen. 
0>e  predo¬ 
minating 
colors  are 
pearl  gray, 
and  light 
terra  cotta 
with  many 
very 
delicate 
gradings 

of  these  shades.  Chis  clay  is  always  sputtering  and  in  a 
state  of  ebullition,  forming  roses,  tulips  and  other  forms 
which  are  wonderfully  perfect  and  astonishing. 

In  the  evening  we  saw  5  Bears  that  came  down  to  the 
back  of  the  hotel  to  explore  the  garbage  barrels. 

In  re-reading  my  notes  I  find  that  I  have  followed  the 
example  of  all  other  sight-seers  in  describing  only  what  I 
saw,  but  the  description  of  the  Yellowstone  park  is  only 
half  a  description  unless  due  attention  is  paid  to  the  odors 
which  abound  there.  I  find  three  sub-divisions  in  them  and 
have  classified  them  as  follows : 


30 


first :  H  faint  recollection  conies  to  you  through  the 
surrounding  rare  atmosphere,  a  sort  of  sensation  akin  to 
that  which  tells  you  in  the  morning  that  one  of  the  mixed 
drinks  taken  the  evening  before  did  not  quite  agree  with 
you.  Simply  a  faint  suspicion  that  something  is  not  quite 
right. 

Second:  Six  deep  invigorating  inhalations  of  pure 
ozone,  producing  an  exhilaration  that  enables  even  the  heavy 
weights  and  mossy  members  of  the  party  to  feel  as  though 
they  would  like  to  climb  a  tree.  Suddenly  a  whiff  from 
somewhere  that  almost  takes  you  off  your  feet  and  makes 
you  wonder  whether  there  is  a  menagerie  with  its  cages  of 
confined  animals  or  a  slaughter  house  in  mid-summer  hidden 
from  your  view  by  the  sparsely  growing  scrub  pine,  ^ou 
investigate,  which  in  this  case  means  follow  your  nose  and 
you  come  across  a  little  or  large  (as  the  case  may  be)  pool 
of  water  which  exhales  the  mephitic  breath. 

Chird :  Do  you  know  what  a  stink  is  ?  Here  it  is; 
something  that  lies  heavily  on  your  chest  taking  away  your 
breath  and  producing  in  you  the  wild  desire  to  stampede 
which  is  only  checked  by  the  beauties  which  your  eyes  are 
feasting  on.  Dave  you  ever  entered  Detroit  by  the  Ulabash 
Railroad  and  passed  a  great  collection  of  massive  buildings 
that  bear  the  sign,  “Michigan  Carbon  Uiorks"?  Ulell  if  you 
multiply  your  experience  there  by  four  you  have  the  odor  of 
the  “Devil's  frying  pan"  for  instance.  But  there  is  one 
virtue  in  the  odors  and  that  is  they  make  a  Christian  human 
being  better.  Ulben  entering  the  park  you  will  find  notices 
on  most  of  the  stationery  telling  people  who  suspect  that 
they  have  weak  hearts  that  they  had  better  consult  the 
doctor  at  the  Mammoth  Springs  Hotel. 

Che  irreverent  suspect  that  this  is  an  “ad"  of  the 
doctor  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  trade  to  him  in  this 
land  of  health  but  it  has  the  effect  of  making  the  said 
“C.  D.  B."  think  of  his  latter  end.  Ulhen  standing  near  a 
fetid  pool  good  resolutions  could  be  plainly  read  in  the 
square  set  jaw  and  supplicating  eyes  of  the  Congregation- 
alist  of  our  party. 

<de  ride  to  the  Upper  6eyscr  where  a  long,  rambling 


31 


building  indicates  a  resting  place.  On  getting  nearer  we 
find  it  is  constructed  from  unhewn  logs  and  is  picturesquely 
located,  nestling  in  a  grove  of  pines  and  tamarack.  H 
babbling  brook  coming  out  of  the  hill,  loses  itself  in  the 
valley  at  our  feet,  and,  finally  find  its  way  into  ftre-F>olc 
River. 

<lle  ask  for  rooms  for  the  night  and  are  shown  a  long 
tent  ostentatiously  marked  No.  i.  H  hallway  down  the 
center  formed  of  canvas  divides  it.  Ht  the  end  of  the  hall 
a  small  wood  stove  looks  pitifully  inconspicuous  when 
compared  with  the  size  of  the  tent.  Che  rooms  are  canvas 
formed,  with  a  flap,  for  a  door.  H  deal  bed,  small  table, 
and  a  wash-bowl,  with  a  four  by  six  looking  glass  furnish 
the  accomodations.  Scrupulous  cleanliness  prevails  and 
later  on  at  Yancey's  we  have  occasion  to  think  back  to  this 
primitive  abode  with  loving  memory. 

H  lunch  is  served  by  a  squat  figured  black-eyed  “Bossy 
Brander”  of  Montana  and  spoiled  by  an  officious  landlord 
with  great  whiskers,  hollow  chest,  and  hollower  cough  who 
takes  the  first  opportunity  to  tell  us  that  four  years  ago 
he  was  dying  of  consumption  but  now  thanks  to  the 
climate  etc.  etc. 

Our  ambulance  being  ready  we  visit  prismatic  Lake  and 
Curquoise  Spring.  Che  latter,  a  beautiful  pool  of  blue 
water  about  one  hundred  feet  in  diameter  entrances  us. 

Sapphire  pool,  a  large  spring,  also  hot,  some  250  by  300 
feet  in  size  fairly  astonishes  us.  Che  vapors  that  arise  make 
it  difficult  at  all  times  to  obtain  a  satisfactory  view. 

In  order  to  get  this,  it  is  necessary  to  walk  out  to  the 
very  edge  and  peer  out  through  the  vapor.  Che  winds  shift 
them  more  or  less,  so  that  glimpses  may  be  obtained  of  the 
pool  whose  loveliness  is  not  matched  elsewhere.  It  \q  how¬ 
ever  necessary  to  be  careful.  Che  walls  around  the  pool 
are  eaten  out  underneath  and  shelve  back  under  the  surface, 
leaving  but  a  thin  shell  to  walk  on.  It  is  the  largest  of  the 
springs  and  is  a  rare  jewel  in  this  land  of  jewels,  from  it 
descends  a  perfect  network  of  rivulets  and  ribbons  of  many 
and  beautiful  colors,  all  flowing  into  the  fire-F)olc  River. 
Che  pictured  colorings  of  the  waters  form  a  delightful  color 


32  — 


fantasy  and  with  Curquotse  Springs  near  by,  and  similar 
in  character,  this  seems  like  an  ideal  fairy  spot* 

from  there  we  drive  to  Bxcelsior  Geyser  which  is  one 
of  the  independent  chaps  and  reaches  a  state  of  activity  only 
at  rare  times  and  we  are  told  that  when  it  does  come  it  is 
worth  a  trip  across  the  continent  to  see  it* 

Perhaps  this  is  a  proper  place  to  remark  that  the  word 
Geyser-Geiser  or  Gesiris  is  a  word  of  Icelandic  origin  and 
means  gusher  or  rager*  In  its  native  use  it  is  the  proper 
name  of  the  Great  Geyser  in  Iceland  and  is  not  an 
appellative* 

Che  history  of  the  Great  Geyser  of  Iceland  begins  in 
the  early  part  of  the  fifteenth  century*  Its  eruptions  occur 
once  in  thirty  hours  and  it  throws  seventy  to  eighty  feet 
with  perhaps  two  small  eruptions  between  of  from  thirty 
to  fifty  feet  high* 

Geysers  exist  at  the  present  time  in  many  volcanic 
regions,  as  in  the  Bastern  Hrchipelago,  Japan  and  South 
Hmerica;  but  they  are  best  developed  in  Iceland,  New  Zea¬ 
land  and  the  Yellowstone  National  park*  Che  Geysers  of 
Iceland  are  within  a  circuit  of  two  miles  and  more  than  one 
hundred  hot  springs  can  be  counted  in  that  limit.  Che  Ice¬ 
land  Geysers  are  fifty  miles  north  of  ]Mt*  f)ecla,  at  the  foot 
of  a  range  of  hills  three  or  four  hundred  feet  in  height  in  a 
broad  valley  of  alluvial  formation*  Che  Geysers  of  New 
Zealand  are  in  the  south  of  Huckland,  near  the  upper  basin 
of  the  (SQaikato  river* 

Che  Geysers  of  the  National  park  exceed  both  in 
quantity  and  grandeur  all  others  in  the  known  world*  If 
all  the  other  Geysers  were  to  assemble  in  their  might  they 
would  sink  into  insignificance  when  put  beside  our  National 
exhibit* 


>  *  Ti-jJ 

:  ' 

ft  M 

l  * 

Chapter  6. 


€F>6  CHPCHXN* 

6  drive  to  the  Old  Riverside  which  when  we 
passed  in  the  morning  gave  promise  of  per¬ 
forming  for  our  benefit,  Ctle  settled  our¬ 
selves  comfortably  in  our  seats  and  the 
“children”  who  did  not  seem  to  know  what 
physical  tiredness  meant  improved  the 
opportunity  by  climbing  up  a  steep  hillside  where  they  finally 
appear  in  the  open,  seated  on  a  rock  and  are  very  frequently 
rested  on  by  the  fond  eyes  of  Uncle  frank  and  myself, 

Che  park  at  this  place  abounded  with  what  are  called 
“Prairie  Schooners”  driven  in  by  dwellers  in  the  long 
stretches  of  plain  of  both  Montana  and  Wyoming,  Che 
old  seem  to  separate  from  the  young  like  chaff  from  the 
wheat  and  we  find  interest  only  in  the  antics  of  the 
generation  that  lives  in  the  present.  Brown,  with  the 
healthy  rich  blood,  produced  by  the  prairie,  mounting 
through  their  cheeks ;  clad  in  the  picturesque  non-descript 
clothing  of  the  <Ucst,  they  are  found  everywhere  usually 
with  the  male  arm  encircling  the  sturdy  female  waist  and 
the  laughter  of  the  healthy,  unconventional  is  heard  on  all 
sides.  Che  stepping  on  a  dry  branch,  causing  it  to  break 
and  an  end  to  fly  up  and  strike  one  of  the  young  women  on 
the  arm,  with  a  force  that  would  cause  a  city  damsel  to 
consult  the  family  physician,  gives  rise  to  laughter,  ringing 
laughter  that  carries  them  over  a  period  of  at  least  ten 
minutes.  Of  the  older  members  of  this  peculiar  western 
race  only  one  appeals  to  our  fancy.  H  sawed-off  stout, 
grey  little  fellow  with  a  happy  rotundity  and  a  sparkling 
eye  that  has  retained  the  interest  of  youth.  F>c  rides  about 


35  — 


from  place  to  place  on  a  frisky  bay  broncho,  Hny  increased 
rising  of  vapor  in  the  distance  is  sufficient  reason  for  the 
old  man  to  set  out  on  a  neck  breaking  gallop  to  ascertain 
the  cause, 

Che  comb  of  Riverside  Geyser  stands  immediately  on 
the  edge  of  Spring  Creek,  in  fact,  almost  seems  to  rise 
out  of  it.  Little  jets  of  steaming  hot  water  flow  down 
the  edge  of  the  comb  and  two  little  maidens  come  out  of 
the  green  forest  in  the  back  ground  carrying  between  them 
their  laundry  and  start  to  wash  a  big  brown  sheet  in  the 
over  running  water  of  old  Riverside.  <£lith  many  a  little 
shriek  probably  caused  by  the  heat  of  the  water  coming 
from  their  natural  laundry  tub,  they  finish  their  task  and 
after  rinsing  in  the  cool  fresh  waters  of  Spring  Creek, 
retire,  and  just  in  time,  for  the  warning  shout  from  fitz 
has  startled  them  away  and  Old  Riverside  with  a  roar  and 
a  grumble  shoots  up  a  jet  of  water  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high, 
then  recedes  and  with  a  mightier  roar  breaks  forth  a  column 
at  least  one  hundred  feet  high  and  probably  three  feet  thick 
at  the  base. 

Row  shall  X  describe  it?  Hddcd  to  the  awesome  sight, 
old  father  Sol,  the  painter  of  bright  colors  has  come  out 
from  his  hiding  and  enlivens  the  picture.  H  rainbow 
finding  its  beginning  at  the  apex  of  the  geyser  throws  a 
stately  arch,  the  lower  end  of  which  is  lost  in  the  deep  blue 
verdure  of  the  pines  beyond.  (Xiords  fail  and  we  all  feel 
that  it  is  good  to  be  alive  and  good  to  be  together  to  enjoy 
this  rare  picture.  It  brings  back  the  adage  that  “shared 
trouble  is  divided  trouble  and  shared  joys  are  doubled 
joys." 

Surfeited  with  all  we  have  seen,  passing  fan  Geyser 
which  gives  what  now  seems  to  us  an  ineffectual  spurt  but 
which  at  other  times  would  seem  a  grand  sight,  we  drive 
back  to  the  plateau  on  which  are  geysers  that  are  extinct  and 
threatening  geysers  innumerable,  among  them  the  Bee-Rive, 
Cascades,  Giantess  and  the  Grotto. 

$Qe  return  to  our  supper  and  then  as  our  curiosity  has 
again  awakened  wander  to  “Old  faithful"  the  never  disap¬ 
pointing  chap.  Re  reminds  you  of  the  old  watchman  that 


—  36 


you  have  seen  parsing  your  door  daily  with  bis  lunch  basket* 
going  to  his  nightly  vigil.  Old  faithful  spouts  about  once 
every  sixty  minutes.  Ulitb  watch  in  band  we  awaited  the 
upward  rush  of  water  and  were  rewarded  in  seeing  a  great 
volume  thrown  up  fifty  to  sixty  feet  high  into  the  air. 

<Has  it  that  we  were  surfeited  or  was  it  that  the 
gloaming  had  arrived  and  the  glorious  sun,  which  had  added 
to  the  beauty  of  the  Riverside,  bad  sunk  behind  the  Uiestcrn 
foot-hills  ?  It  is  a  fact  that  the  impression  gained  at  the 
Riverside  was  not  renewed  by  Old  faithful,  staunch  and 
true  as  he  is.  Co  us  Riverside  is  and  will  remain  the 
Captain. 

(Ue  get  back  to  our  tent  and  start  a  crackling  fire  in 
the  little  stove  which  by  this  time  is  appreciated  as  a  dear 
and  warm  friend,  scat  ourselves  on  chairs,  and  the  remainder 
of  the  party,  when  the  supply  of  chairs  is  exhausted,  on 
boxes,  and  drawing  close  spend  the  evening  in  reminis¬ 
cencing. 

Che  impressions  arc  varied  but  out  of  all  that  is  said 
speaks  a  love  of  nature  that  draws  all  together  as  would  a 
bond. 

73t  last  sleep  is  sought  for  but  is  delayed  for  some 
minutes  by  the  snoring  of  Uncle  frank,  which  was  finally 
interrupted  by  one  of  the  many  cakes  of  soap  and  other 
loose  articles  which  are  hurled  at  him  over  the  partition, 
successfully  striking  him,  Ulitb  a  grunt  he  turns  over  and 
soon  silence  covers  all  and  one  after  the  other  drops  off  into 
the  land  of  JNk>d. 

In  the  morning  X  was  awakened  by  bearing  somebody 
whittling  kindling  and  bustling  around  our  old  friend,  the 
little  stove.  X  knew  that  only  Uncle  frank  had  farm 
training  and  X  attributed  this  early  energy  to  him  as  X  lay 
snuggled  up  in  the  army  blankets.  Xn  my  doze  X  could  see 
Uncle  frank,  the  red-checked  farm  boy  up  in  old  ]Mainc  at 
the  dawn  of  day  getting  out  of  his  bed,  starting  the  kitchen 
fire  and  then  going  out  to  the  old  oaken  bucket  next  to  the 
well  for  his  morning  ablution,  and  X  in  a  hazy  sort  of  a 
way  determined  that  X  would  speak  some  words  of  com¬ 
mendation  to  him  for  his  thoughtfulness  for  the  comfort  of 


RIVERSIDE  GEYSER,  YELLOWSTONE  PARK 


—  38  — 


our  party,  when  my  train  of  half-conscious  thought  was 
suddenly  interrupted  by  a  strange  harsh  male  voice  calling 
out,  “Hnybody  wants  any  hot  water  put  their  bowl  in  the 
hair  and  thus  my  dream  was  shattered. 

Passing  my  bowl  into  the  hall  it  was  soon  filled  from 
a  pail  by  the  “hall-steward”  who  stalked  defiantly  out  of 
the  tent  as  though  some  indignity  had  been  inflicted  upon 
him.  Later  I  met  him  before  the  tent  and  a  picturesque 
figure  he  was,  dark  and  swarthy  of  face,  a  slouch  hat,  blue 
shirt  and  trousers  tucked  into  cow-hide  boots  completed  bis 
attire. 

Co  my  regret  Bossy  Brander  did  not  wait  on  us  at 
breakfast  and  although  X  looked  about  for  her  my  quest 
was  unrewarded. 

It  suddenly  occured  to  Uncle  frank  that  this  was  Sun¬ 
day,  Sept.  8th  and  following  the  old  maxim  that  “the  better 
the  day  the  better  the  deed”  we  on  this  day  rode  twenty-one 
miles  on  horseback  and  made  nineteen  miles  in  a  boat.  It 
was  a  beautiful  crisp  morning  and  the  best  of  humor 
pervaded  the  entire  party. 

Bvcrett,  whose  original  mount  had  played  out,  perhaps 
because  a  willing  youth  sat  upon  a  willing  horse,  had  been 
provided  by  fitz  with  a  white  broncho  who  clearly  showed 
that  the  years  usually  allotted  to  the  equine  race  had  passed 
over  kim  but  bad  left  him,  if  somewhat  the  worse  for  wear 
and  tear,  still  gamy  enough  to  make  you  avoid  the  proximity 
of  bis  heels.  f)i&  former  owner  bad  told  fitz  that  be  had 
never  worn  shoes  on  bis  hind  feet  because  be  had  resisted 
all  efforts  to  shoe  him  behind  and  in  consequence  his  hind  feet 
bad  been  stepped  flat  and  were  the  size  and  shape  of  fair 
sized  plates. 

Bverett's  horse  being  fresh  and  my  Muggins  frisky  (as 
be  usually  was  in  the  morning)  we  started  out  at  a  brisk 
pace  and  soon  left  our  party  behind.  Ule  wound  our  way  up 
through  the  forests  to  Kepler's  Cascade  where  we  stopped, 
waiting  for  our  party  and  watched  the  water  as  it  comes 
leaping,  tumbling,  falling  madly,  with  froth  and  foam  down 
the  lava  slope.  It  is  a  wild  spot  and  so  different  from  the 
geyser  country  that  we  had  left  nearby  that  we  have  forced 


“  39  — 


upon  us  once  more  the  contrasting  character  of  much  of  the 
park  scenery*  Stic  follow  the  fire-F>ole  River  in  its 
charmingly  winding  course  to  where  Spring  Creek  joins  it 
and  there  we  bid  farewell  to  it.  SQe  have  seen  so  much  of 
this  clean,  sparkling  stream  that  we  feel  loth  to  say  good-by 
and  turn  up  the  narrow  mountain  defile  of  the  little  creek* 
Hfter  proceeding  for  half  an  hour  fit z  informs  us  that  up 
a  valley  at  the  entrance  of  which  we  are  standing  there  is  a 
geyser  of  peculiar  formation.  SCle  determined  to  visit  it 
and  canter  into  the  valley  over  the  greenest  sward  that  we 
have  yet  seen,  so  velvet  like  is  its  character  that  all  the 
caution  that  is  necessary  is  to  watch  out  for  gopher  holes* 
H  brisk  half  hour's  ride  brings  us  into  the  center  of 
this  valley*  perfectly  flat,  the  mountains  having  receded  a 
full  mile  on  each  side  of  us  and  right  in  the  center,  with  not 


a  stone  near  it,  stands  the  geyser,  a  column  of  rock  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet  high,  emitting  a  slight  vapor  and  because  of 
its  isolated  position,  most  appropriately  named  the  Lone 
8tar,  but,  would  not  the  Lost  Star  have  been  more  poetical 
a  name? 

UCLc  ride  back  to  the  main  road  and  now  begins  our 
climb  of  the  Continental  Divide*  <He  reach  it  at  a  narrow 


40  — 


spot  in  the  mountains,  retired,  silent,  hemmed  in  by  cl  if  fed 
walls,  known  as  Craig  pass*  Ht  one  side  of  the  roadway 
is  a  small  pond  and  altogether  it  makes  a  very  effective  bit 
of  landscape*  FVere  we  are  8240  feet  above  the  sea.  On  one 
side  of  us  a  brook  hurries,  as  though  startled  by  the 
appearance  of  our  party,  to  bury  itself  in  the  bosom  of  the 
waters  of  the  Grand  pacific.  On  our  left  the  overflow  of 
the  pond  finds  its  way  through  thousands  of  miles  through 
the  Yellowstone,  Missouri,  and  Mississippi,  and  finally  be¬ 
comes  lost  in  the  warm  embrace  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

?0c  cross  the  Continental  Divide  twice  this  day.  <0c 
now  ascend  Corkscrew  Dill,  then  cross  Deron  Creek,  ascend 
another  mountain  and  suddenly  stop  at  Shoshone  point. 
Che  mountains,  black  with  heavy  timber,  rise  ail  about  us 
and  away  down  at  the  northern  end  of  the  view  is  beautiful 
Shoshone  Lake.  Hnd  see  l  far  in  the  distance,  clear  and 
martial  like,  the  three  Cetons  rise.  Chat  highest  one,  whose 
peak  looks  like  an  index  finger  is  1 3,700  feet  high. 

Che  ride  from  this  portion  of  the  park  is  most 
exhilarating.  Che  rare  scenery,  the  rarer  atmosphere,  the 
frequent  changes  of  view!  Now  creeping  along  the  mountain 
side  and  now  sweeping  around  the  bold  mountain  headlands 
makes  one  feel  that  he  is  indeed  clear  of  the  turmoil  of  the 
world  and  is  breathing  the  pure  air  of  the  hills  and 
mountains,  untainted  by  the  gases  and  odors  of  the  cities. 

<Qe  ride  for  several  hours,  rising  higher  and  higher 
until  the  climax  is  reached.  Over  and  through  a  fringe  of 
trees,  the  turquoise  colored  Lake  breaks 

suddenly  upon  the  sight.  Our  labored  breathing  tells  us 
that  we  are  at  a  high  altitude  and  consulting  our  map 
we  learn  that  this  lake  ts  7,721  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea. 

Che  growth  of  timber  grows  heavier  until  it  ends  in  a 
fringe  at  the  shore  of  the  lake.  F)erc  is  found  a  lunch  station, 
that  is,  large  tents,  are  pitched.  <SUe  enter  the  first  one 
which  is  a  sort  of  a  reception  room.  On  inquiring  for  a 
drink  the  gentlemen  of  the  party  are  motioned  to  the  rear 
where  a  canvas  flap  is  lifted  and  on  stepping  through  we 
find  ourselves  in  a  smaller  tent  where  eight  whisky  bottles 


“  42  — 

arc  set  on  a  shelf  in  a  row,  and  to  our  delight  each  is  labeled 
“Canadian  Club”. 

<Ohilc  waiting  around  for  the  lunch  to  be  set  on  the 
table  a  coach  party  arrives  and  as  soon  as  they  have  shaken 
themselves  free  of  dust  we  are  ushered  into  the  dining  room 
which  contains  a  long  deal  table  with  benches  along  the 
sides.  Hfter  all  are  seated  bountiful  platters  of  good, 
substantial  food  are  set  out  before  us. 

Capt.  Walters,  a  striking  figure  introduces  himself  and 
arrangements  are  made  with  him  to  cross  the  lake  on  his 
little  steamer  “Zillah”.  Che  “Ztllah”  is  a  small  steamer 
that  was  transported  piece -meal  over  the  mountains  to  this 
lake. 

Hs  it  is  yet  some  time  before  the  boat  starts  we  stroll 
around  in  the  neighborhood  and  view  some  quite  pretty 
paint-pots.  <Oe  have  arranged  with  fttz  that  he  and  the 
driver  take  our  horses  along  the  Northwestern  shore  of  the 

lake,  a  long 
tedious  19 
mile  ride. 
Only  a  few 
of  the  people 
availed  them¬ 
selves  of  the 
opportunity 
to  ride  on  a 
steamboat 
on  fellow- 
stone  Lake 
which  lies  at 
the  highest 
altitude  of 
any  lake  in 
the  world 
that  is  nav¬ 
igable. 

Bmm a  and 
Bvcrett  go 
to  the  upper 


_  43  — 


deck,  and  Gnrma  is  soon  invited  to  steer  the  boat  which  she 
does  for  the  entire  twenty  miles  of  the  trip. 

Hbout  half  way  across  the  lake  is  Dot  Island.  On  this 
Island  Capt.  (Halters  has  a  few  buffalo  and  elk  in  captivity, 
from  here  we  cross  to  the  Gastern  shore  and  on  the  way 
through  a  gap  in  the  mountains  we  get  a  most  beautiful 
view  of  the  Cetons  in  the  (Hest,  and  of  ]Mt.  Sheridan  in  the 
South,  while  in  the  Cast  are  the  so-called  Signal  Dills,  being 
the  foot-hills  to  such  giants  as  Hvalanche  peak,  Reservation 
Peak,  Cagle  peak  and  others,  all  over  ten  thousand  feet 
high. 

Capt.  (Halters  joins  us  in  the  stern  of  the  boat  and  we 
arrange  with  him  that  on  our  arrival  at  the  Lake  Dotel  at 
Yellowstone  River,  out-let  of  the  lake,  we  go  a-fishing,  as  he 
highly  recommends  the  sport  at  this  place. 

(He  arrive  at  3.30  and  as  the  lake  has  turned  quite  rough 
we  drive  to  the  river  while  two  guides  row  the  boats.  (He 
fish  for  two  hours.  6mma  was  successful  in  catching  a 
two-pound  trout  and  Sverett  caught  two  smaller  onces, 
while  Uncle  frank  and  myself  caught  none. 

Going  back  to  the  hotel  we  arc  presented  by  Capt. 
(Halters  with  his  bill  for  the  row-boats,  amounting  to  $12, 
a  piece  of  high- way  robbery,  and  the  only  satisfaction  I  had 
was  in  telling  him  that  I  now  knew  why  Christ  walked  on 
the  water,  that  in  the  face  of  such  charges  anybody  else 
would  walk  that  was  able  to. 

On  seeing  all  the  guests  out  in  their  Sunday  finery,  we 
recollected  that  it  was  Sunday.  Bmma  dressed  herself  in 
her  best  and  we  had  an  elegant  dinner  topped  off  with  a  cold 
bottle,  ordered  by  Uncle  frank,  who  then  disclosed  that  this 
was  his  birthday. 

In  the  evening  we  adjourned  to  the  hotel  lobby  and 
here  we  learn  that  president  McKinley  is  much  worse  and 
will  probably  die.  H  man  named  prof.  Moore  who  is  at 
the  head  of  some  part  of  the  U.  S.  (Heather  Bureau  makes 
himself  ridiculous  and  obnoxious  by  expressing  in  loud 
trumpet  tones  that  he  hoped  the  people  would  now  go 
cn  masse  to  Paterson,  ]^.  and  hang  every  man,  woman 
and  child  that  called  themselves  anarchists  or  socialists. 


44  — 


More  anarchistic  talk  could  not  be  beard  anywhere  and  it 
plainly  showed  the  bad  results  which  arise  from  our  method 
of  appointing  people  to  high  offices  because  of  political 
“pull”  and  no  other  consideration* 


Chapter  7. 


CB6  GRAND  CANYON- 


6  arise  early  and  set  out  to  ride  along  the 
Yellowstone  River  having  for  our  objective 
point  the  Grand  Canyon.  Che  Yellowstone 
River  sweeps  majestically  between  deep  cut 
banks. 

Che  first  sights  of  interest  are  the  Ochre 
Springs,  paint-pots  of  a  yellow  color.  Chen  we  come  to  a 
most  curious  phenomenon,  a  so-called  Mud  Volcano.  A 
slimy-looking,  slippery  hill  about  thirty  feet  high  which  we 
ascend  with  considerable  trouble.  Before  us  opens  what 
appears  to  be  a  crater  in  the  bottom  of  which  a  mass  of 
liquid  mud  surges  violently  back  and  forth.  Che  odor  is 
truly  mephitic.  It  seems  as  though  there  were  two  streams 
of  mud  from  opposite  sides  of  the  basin.  CClhile  one  is 
discharging  the  other  subsides,  and  I  presume  no  one  has 
looked  with  admiration  at  this  spectacle. 

<Uc  now  enter  Bayden  Valley,  a  beautiful  valley  which 
looks  as  though  cultivation  would  render  it  most  fertile. 
Bcre  some  years  ago  the  government  fenced  in  a  large  tract 
of  land,  storing  in  it  great  quantities  of  hay  and  feed,  and 
then  drove  into  the  enclosure  the  remnants  of  buffalo  herds 
which  were  still  to  be  found  roaming  about  the  park.  It 
was  feared  that  the  severe  winters  were  the  cause  of  their 
decimation,  but  in  this  case,  to  change  an  old  saw,  “Man 
proposes  and  buffalo  disposes.”  SQbcn  spring  came  on  and 
the  buffalo  camp  was  visited  it  was  found  that  they  bad 
all  escaped  in  some  mysterious  manner  as  the  fifteen  fcct- 
high  stockade  was  entirely  intact.  Che  puzzle  was  solved 
by  an  old  scout  and  hunter  who  explained  that  the  deep 


“  46  — 


snow  was  drifted  against  one  side  of  the  stockade  and  that 
when  it  froze  solid  the  buffaloes  simply  walked  out.  Chis 
was  the  last  attempt  at  confining  them  in  the  park. 

*  Hnotber  half  hour's  ride  brings  us  to  the  wonderful 
mountain  called  “Sulphur  Mountain"  which  at  least  on  the 
surface  is  fully  fifty  per  cent  pure  sulphur.  Ctlc  ride  on  and 
down  into  a  valley  where  we  scare  up  a  herd  of  hundreds  of 
antelope,  the  captain  of  the  herd  taking  up  the  point  of 
danger,  the  rear  of  the  column.  Ole  follow  these  graceful 
animals  for  some  distance  before  they  scampered  over  a  hill 
and  were  lost  to  sight. 

$Qe  ride  on  and  reach  the  upper  falls  of  the  Yellowstone 
Canyon.  F)erc  this  mighty  river  throws  itself  one  hundred 
and  nine  feet  over  the  rocks  down  into  the  gorge.  H  very 
steep  climb  brings  us  out  on  a  rock  where  a  most  magnificent 
view  of  these  falls  can  be  obtained. 

<Qe  arrive  at  the  Canyon  f)otel  at  12.30. 

Ht  this  hotel  we  are  given  fine  rooms  fronting  on  the 
canyon  andas,  we  are  all  tired  we  remain  in  them  for  a  rest. 
Uncle  -frank  and  myself  repair  to  one  of  the  rooms  for  a 
little  chat  leaving  the  hall  door  open  when,  who  should  walk 
up  to  it  and  peer  in  but  prof.  Redneck  who  has  been  the 
bane  of  my  life  ever  since  we  struck  the  park,  but  a  scowl 
sends  him  off  retreating  into  the  distance.  Bmma  was 
allowed  to  sleep  for  half  an  hour  and  then  we  set  out  in  our 
wagon  to  view  the  canyon. 

<£ie  first  stop  at  the  lower  fall,  three  hundred  eight  feet 
high.  Uie  have  seen  the  Niagara  and  have  stood  stricken 
with  awe  on  its  brink,  but  here  we  are  entranced,  not  be¬ 
cause  the  fall  here  is  so  much  higher  but  because  of  the 
magnificent  view  which  from  this  point  spreads  itself  out 
before  us  for  miles  into  the  canyon.  Che  dazzling  chaos  of 
color,  the  predominating  splashes  of  yellow  brown,  running 
off  into  almost  a  black  and  then  again  a  pure  white.  Ulc 
travel  by  a  steep  path  down  close  to  the  fall  and  there  we 
sit  and  gaze  in  rapture  at  the  panorama  before  us,  and  again 
we  feel  that  it  is  good  to  be  alive  and  good  to  be  together 
and  all  agree  it  is  one  of  the  sights  of  our  lives,  perhaps  the 
grandest.  One  could  remain  for  days  gazing  into  this 


-  48  - 

grand  chasm  of  color  and  find  some  new  point  of  interest 
with  every  look* 

<Cic  finally  tear  ourselves  away  and  mount  again  to  the 
top  of  the  canyon  and  as  we  reach  the  plateau  above  a  cow¬ 
boy  comes  down  a  steep  hill  driving  a  herd  of  sight  horses 

before 
him.  Some 
are  laden 
heavily 
and  others 
arc  free  of 
any 

burden. 
«Utb 
dextrous 
circular 
move¬ 
ments  of 
bis  horse 
be  rides 
around  the 
herd  and 
gradually 

turns  them  closer  together  with  all  heads  to  one  central 
point.  H  little  further  urging,  the  heads  meet  and  the 
horses  of  necessity  stand  still  almost  wedged  together  and 
we  have  seen  a  genuine  “round-up”  as  it  is  called  in  the 
Western  vernacular,  most  skillfully  carried  out. 

On  inquiry  we  learn  that  the  cowboy  and  his  pack  belong 
to  a  party  who  arc  going  bunting  south  of  the  Yellowstone 
park  in  the  so-called  “Jackson  F>ole  Country”. 

CClc  ride  along  the  edge  of  the  canyon  and  at  times  so 
close  that  it  is  apparently  dangerous  until  we  get  to  point 
Lookout.  H  narrow  path  protected  by  a  long  rail  leads  to 
the  point  projecting  into  the  canyon.  F)crc  a  most  beautiful 
view  westward  toward  the  lower  falls  is  obtained.  Hn 
old  gentleman  at  this  point  volunteers  the  information  that 
the  canyon  at  this  place  is  over  two  miles  wide  and  as  be 
had  two  grown  up  daughters  with  him  I  admitted  that  he 


—  49  ~ 


was  right 
although  I 
had  the  im¬ 
pression 
that  it  was 
not  over 
two  thou¬ 
sand  feet 
wide.  SClc 
rode  on  to 
Inspiration 
point  which 
affords  a 
grander 
view  than 
any  other 
point  at  the 
canyon  (if 
such  a  thing 
is  possible). 

I 

various 
descriptions 
of  the 

Yellowstone  Canyon  and  probably  those  of  Kipling,  Hrchi- 
bald  Geike,  the  Snglish  geologist,  and  Upson  are  the  best, 
but  to  me  the  description  of  the  Japanese  who  looked  at 
this  Joseph's  coat  of  the  canyon  walls  is  most  expressive. 
F)c  said,  “Chey  say  my  land  is  the  land  of  the  rising  sun. 
for  a  million  years  this  has  been  the  land  of  the  setting  sun. 
Sunsets  of  the  past  are  dissolved  on  these  walls  ;  they  arc 
the  colors  of  all  the  Yesterdays.” 

<ile  raise  our  hats  for  a  final  salute  to  the  majestic 
scene  and  just  then  the  tip  of  the  loftiest  pine  which  had 
been  gilded  with  a  level  bar  of  fire  lost  it's  light  and  we 
knew  that  this  day  also  was  swallowed  in  the  mist  with 
all  the  Yesterdays,  but  in  our  souls  it  has  dissolved  into 
undying  glory  that  renders  the  walls  of  memory  forever 
luminous. 


—  50  — 

In  the  gloaming  we  drive  bach  to  the  hotel  where  we 
arrange  our  baggage  so  that  the  bulk  of  it  can  return  to  the 
Mammoth  f)ot  Springs  F)otel  as  from  this  point  we  intend 
leaving  the  traveled  paths  and  strike  Northeastward  toward 
the  so-called  Buffalo  plateau*  It  is  quickly  settled  that 
each  of  us  will  carry  his  own  baggage  on  the  back  of  bis 
horse  and  we  conclude  to  reduce  this  baggage  to  the 
minimum  and  it  finally  results  in  each  taking  along  a  night¬ 
shirt,  tooth-brush  and  comb  and  brush* 

CObilc  walking  into  the  dining  room  we  perceive  the 
waiter  at  the  table  we  were  approaching  turning  the  chairs 
around  in  bis  hand*  It  struck  me  as  being  a  peculiar 
operation  and  after  being  seated  I  asked  the  waiter  what 
the  meaning  of  it  was* 

Hfter  some  hesitation  he  said  that  he  was  trying  to 
break  the  hoodoo  as  four  parties  had  sat  at  that  table  and 
none  of  them  bad  given  him  a  tip*  H  promise  that  the 
chasm  had  worked  and  the  hoodoo  broken  brought  about 
most  careful  attention* 

I  arranged  with  the  beadwaiter,  a  portly  colored 
gentleman  to  provide  us  with  a  lunch  for  our  next  day's  ride 
as  we  will  find  no  stopping  place  until  night-fall*  ^dishing 
to  surprise  the  party  with  a  liberal  lunch  my  written  order 

was  as  follows : 

i  large  loaf  of  bread 
1 2  hard-boiled  eggs 
1 2  slices  of  bam 
1 2  slices  of  beef  tongue 
3  boxes  of  sardines 
i  cup  filled  with  butter 
i  jar  of  pickles  and  a  package 
each  of  pepper  and  salt* 

Co  insure  proper  attention  an  extra  two-dollar  bill  was 
pressed  in  the  band  of  the  gentleman  of  color* 

talking  out  into  the  ball  I  meet  my  “Lady  in  Black" 
face  to  face,  and  wishing  to  say  something  clever  to  her 
I  recited  to  her  the  first  verse  of  Schiller's  “Maedcben  aus 
der  fremde"*  She  first  listened  with  a  surprised  expres¬ 
sion  which  gradually  changed  to  a  look  which  I  interpreted 


—  52  — 


as  one  of  recognition  and  then  she  stammered  blushingly 
and  with  pretty  hesitation  “It  is  so  many  years  since  I 
have  studied  french  that  X  have  forgotten  most  of  it”,  and 
another  prospective  romance  had  passed  into  the  gray  and 
distant  beyond. 


Chapter  8* 


mc.  mn&maRK 


Dunraven 
Peak,  pas¬ 
sing  over 
the  Conti¬ 
nental 
Divide 
between 
that  peak 
and  Mt* 
CCIashburn* 
Some  of  our 
party  see 
their  first 
herd  of  elk* 
It  then  fol¬ 
lows  down 
the  northern 
slope  for 
about  two 
miles  and 
attaining 
the  ridge 
turns  south 


Rl6f)C  and  early  next  morning  we  make  our 
start  to  ascend  Mt.  (flashburn,  ten  thousand 
feet  high*  Che  summit  can  be  reached  on 
horseback* 

Che  trail  runs  at  first  almost  directly 
north  and  then  over  the  southern  slope  of 


—  54  — 


and  gradually  ascends  to  the  summit  which  is  in  plain  sight 
after  the  ridge  is  reached*  It  is  a  steep  climb  and  when  we 
get  to  the  top  we  find  a  strong  wind  blowing  but  the  day 
is  beautiful  and  clear*  Che  Cower  Creek  country  lies  before 
us  to  tke  north*  In  the  Cast  stretches  the  region  about 
the  Canyon  and  to  the  south  the  mountains  about  the 
Yellowstone  Lake  loom  in  the  distance* 

XOe  find  a  monument  built  of  loose  stones  at  the  very 
apex  and  in  a  cleft  discover  a  box 
which  contains  a  number  of  cards 
on  which  the  visitors  have  written 
then*  names  and  the  state  of  the 
weather  on  the  date  of  their  pre¬ 
sence*  One  of  them  recorded  that 
in  July  that  year  this  party  was 
drinking  water  made  from  melted 
snow  on  the  summit* 

Leaving  ]Mt*  Washburn  we 
lead  our  horses  as  we  take  a  short 
cut  which  is  very  steep  to  reach 
Hntelope  Creek  where  we  intend 
to  water  our  horses  and  refresh 
ourselves. 

SOhen  we  reach  the  Creek  we 
find  it  entirely  dried  up  and  fitz 
informs  us  that  the  nearest  water 
that  we  can  now  reach  is  three 
hours  ride  distant.  Cbis  is  the 
first  time  in  our  experience  that 
we  miss  that  refreshing  fluid.  It 
cast  a  spell  over  the  entire  party 
and  no  words  were  exchanged. 
Che  horses,  although  all  were  sore  from  the  hard  ride 
up  the  mountain,  were  put  into  a  brisk  canter.  Xde  only 
stop  a  few  minutes  to  observe  a  so-called  Grouse  fool  ben 
that  is  sitting  in  the  middle  of  the  trail. 

<Cle  continue  for  several  hours  until  we  reach  Cower 
falls,  everybody  rushes  to  the  creek  and  takes  a  deep 
draught  of  the  cold  water  out  of  an  empty  tomato  can 


—  55  — 


which  Uncle  frank  has  carried  tied  to  hie  saddle.  Che 
horses  are  unsaddled  and  allowed  to  drink  their  fill  and 
wander  in  the  deep  grass. 

I ,  who  had  been  carrying  the  bag  that  contained  the 
lunch,  opened  it  with  a  great  deal  of  satisfaction.  Che  first 
thing  brought  out  was  a  large  loaf  of  bread  soaked  in 
vinegar,  next  a  lot  of  dust  which  on  close  examination 
proved  to  be  the  shells  and  contents  of  the  dozen  eggs, 
which  had  been  powdered  to  a  dust.  Nothing  else  was 
found,  no  ham,  no  tongue,  no  sardines.  Only  a  few  more 
pickles,  the  vinegar  from  which  had  ruined  the  bread.  Gle 
looked  at  one  and  another  in  despair  and  X  expected  that 
Gncle  frank  would  bring  out  bis  bottle  of  painkiller,  to 
soothe  me  but  be  did  not  understand  my  look  and  X  went 
back  of  a  fallen  tree  and  laid  down,  figuratively  speaking, 
kicking  myself  and  wishing  that  the  time  before  the  war 
would  return  and  X  had  an  opportunity  for  a  ten  minutes 
seance  with  the  negro  beadwaitcr  who  had  taken  my  two 
dollars.  X  dub  the  lunch  a  I'Hfrtcaine. 

Hfter  returning  to  the  party  fitz  tried  to  sooth  my 
ruffled  spirits  by  telling  me  that  X  could  not  tell  by  the 
looks  of  the  bag  what  it  contained,  adding,  “\ou  can't  tell 
by  the  look  of  a  package  if  its  Baking  powder  or 
Dynamite." 

Glc  use  our  saddles  for  pillows  and  all  lie  down  for 
a  rest  when  we  suddenly  hear  a  shout  of  exultation  from 
Bvcrctt  who  has  found  a  can  of  syrup  in  a  cache.  <Oitb 
this  in  our  possesion  we  again  look  for  our  soaked  bread 
and  dipping  it  into  the  opened  can  we  now  have  a  real  feast. 
Some  claim  that  it  is  maple  syrup  but  X  assert  that  it  is 
strained  honey.  Xt  is  difficult  to  tell  which  it  is  for  it  had 
been  in  the  cache  for  some  time  and  bad  turned  slightly  sour. 
X  was  proven  correct  the  next  day  by  having  the  hives. 

feeling  rested,  we  climb  up  to  look  at  Cower  falls  and 
the  Needles  nearby.  Cbis  point  is  the  northern  end  of  the 
Grand  Canyon  which  is  twenty  miles  long. 

Cower  falls,  about  one  hundred  fifty  feet  in  height, 
are  guarded  by  stately  sentinels  of  volcanic  fragments  re¬ 
sembling  church  spires.  Borne  of  these  stand  pillar-like  and 


—  56 


are  only  accessible  to  the  foolhardy  climber,  frothing  can 
be  more  chastely  beautiful  than  this  lovely  cascade  hidden 
away  in  the  dim  light  of  overshadowing  rocks  and  woods, 
its  very  voice  hushed  to  a  low  murmur,  unheard  at  a  distance 
of  a  hundred  yards,  thousands  might  pass  within  a  half 
mile  and  not  dream  of  its  existence ;  but  once  seen,  it  passes 
to  the  list  of  most  pleasant  memories. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Yellowstone  from  the 
mouth  of  Cower  Creek  is  an  exposure  of  basaltic  colums 
similar  to  the  Giant's  Causeway  and  fingals  Cave.  Cbeir 
appearance  make  it  easy  for  fit z  to  hoodwink  some  of  the 
party  by  telling  us  that  it  was  another  buffalo  fence. 

Ole  saddle  our  horses  and  ford  Cower  Creek  and  then 
make  a  very  steep  ascent,  by  far  the  steepest  of  the  entire 
trip,  and  then  ride  for  a  mile  along  a  precipice. 

^Ihen  we  struck  the  smooth  road  we  startled  a  herd  of 
antelope  which  playfully  kept  from  five  hundred  to  one 
thousand  feet  ahead  of  us.  It  was  interesting  to  observe 
bow  the  captain  of  the  herd  would  remain  behind  so  as  to 
apparently  court  the  danger  with  which  we  threatened  bis 
protegees.  F)e  would  stop  perhaps  a  hundred  feet  this  side 
of  the  herd  and  it  would  only  resume  its  flight  after 
receiving  a  signal  from  him.  finally  with  a  defiant  flirt  of 
their  tails  they  disappeared  over  a  ridge. 

During  the  entire  day,  since  leaving  Cower  falls  we  had 
been  finding  elk  horns  lying  on  the  hillsides  where  they  bad 
been  dropped  the  season  before  by  the  monarchs  of  these 
hills.  Che  temptation  was  great  to  carry  some  back  with 
us  but  a  ten  minutes  carrying  of  one  by  Bverett  proved  the 
burden  to  be  too  awkward  and  it  was  again  thrown  to  the 
ground,  there,  to  return  to  dust. 

In  the  distance  we  notice  a  black  bill  which  f  itz  tells 
us  is  the  “Yancey  Butte".  Hn  inquiry  as  to  the  meaning  of 
the  word  “Butte"  brought  the  Yankee  answer  in  the  form 
of  another  question  “Isn't  it  a  beaut  ?" 

Shortly  after  passing  the  Butte  a  fertile  valley  opens 
before  us  and  the  fences  surrounding  fields  of  a  coarse  green 
grass  tell  us  that  we  are  approaching  human  habitations 
and  finally  the  collection  of  low  log  houses  known  as 


”  “ 

“Yanceys”  breaks  upon  the  view.  UHtb  a  dash  I  think 
that  every  member  of  the  party  will  admit  that  the  dash 
was  assumed  as  all  were  fatigued  from  the  long  laborious 
ride)  we  gallop  up  to  the  door  of  Yancey's  office  and  dis¬ 
mount  and  arc  greeted  by  old  man  Yancey,  “Colonel  Yancey” 

as  he  is  called  by  the  settlers 
in  that  section  and  Uncle 
'jfohn  as  he  is  addressed  by 
bis  immediate  friends  and 
subordinates*  H  visit  to  the 
Yellowstone  would  be  in¬ 
complete  unless  Yancey's  was 
included  in  the  route*  Origi¬ 
nally  from  Kentucky  he  has 
been  living  in  this  section  for 
many  years  and  the  most 
careful  pumping  fails  to  elicit 
dates  from  this  typical  Ken¬ 
tuckian*  Small  in  stature, 
very  lean,  hollow  chested, 
stoop  shouldered,  wearing 
bis  hair  down  on  bis 
shoulders,  his  face  adorned 
with  a  drooping  southern 
mustache  and  imperial  whis¬ 
kers,  clothing  anything  but 
neat,  but  the  hair  at  all  times 
well  oiled  and  carefully 
brushed*  from  bis  intimates 
we  learn  that  be  is  over  eighty  years  old  and  had  come  to 
this  section  as  an  Indian  trader  and  finally  located  at  this 
spot  which  the  government  later  reserved  as  a  park*  Because 
of  bis  right  of  priority  he  is  the  only  man  who  is  allowed 
to  have  his  cattle  roam  about  the  park  and  keep  dogs,  all 
canines  being  rigidly  excluded  from  the  park  excepting  the 
two  non-descript  mongrels  which  own  Uncle  John  as  their 
master. 

Ulc  arc  invited  into  his  office  which  turns  out  to  be 
the  bar-room  of  bis  group  of  log  houses*  Che  bar  itself  is 


-  59 


of  the  moat  primitive  nature,  two  barrels  with  a  board  top 
and  on  it  stand  a  tin  measure  and  three  glasses  which  bore 
evidence  that  they  bad  not  been  washed  since  the  day  they 
bad  left  the  shelves  of  the  crockery  store.  But  the  whisky 
was  good  perhaps  because  of  Yancey's  assurance  that  be 
received  it  direct  from  “Old  Kaintuck”.  CCHtb  a  “ftere's 
bow”  the  liquor  is  tossed  off  and  then  X  call  for  another 
round  insisting  that  an  on-looker  with  a  game  leg  who 
carries  a  dilapidated  toothpick  stuck  in  the  band  of  his 
felt  bat  and  who  is  addressed  as  “Bob”  should  partake  with 
the  party.  Che  Colonel  requests  that  the  remaining  water 
be  emptied  into  the  wash  basin  probably  to  save  himself 
the  trouble  of  getting  a  fresh  supply  from  the  spring. 

Che  introduction  is  now  supposed  to  be  over  and  all 
the  forms  of  Sflcstcrn  politeness  conformed  with.  Che 
momentous  question  “Can  we  have  something  to  eat”  is 
put  to  the  Colonel,  “^dall,  X  Dunno  !  JVIcbbe  you'd  better 
go  in  yerself  an  ask  the  cook.”  CCIitb  beating  heart  and  a 
silver  dollar  held  out  before  me  as  a  peace  offering  X  venture 
to  invade  the  precinct  of  the  queen  of  the  kitchen.  Covertly 
taking  the  profferred  coin  she  agreed  to  hurriedly  provide 
us  with  the  best  the  bouse  afforded  and  to  improve  the 
time  we  ask  to  be  shown  to  our  rooms.  H  pink  cheeked 
little  maid  leads  the  way  up  a  stairway  of  creaking,  rough 
boards  and  when  we  reach  the  top  announces  that  the  lady 
and  her  husband,  meaning  me  and  my  daughter  can  take 
Room  JVo.  i .  Che  little  hallway  in  which  we  are  standing 
is  formed  by  undressed  boards  and  the  doors  leading  from 
it  have  large  numbers  marked  upon  them  in  chalk  from  one 
to  five. 

Hn  inspection  of  the  bed-rooms  prove  them  to  be  large 
enough  for  a  single  bedstead  with  a  box  on  which  are  wash¬ 
bowl,  pitcher  and  part  of  a  crash  towel.  Of  the  four  window 
lights  at  least  one  was  broken  in  every  room.  Che  cracks  in 
the  wall  are  pasted  up  with  strips  of  newspaper.  No.  t 
being  the  bridal  chamber  was  distinguished  from  the  others 
by  a  four  by  six  looking  glass.  Che  beds  showed  they  were 
changed  at  least  twice,  once  in  the  spring  and  once  in  the 
fall  of  each  year.  H  little  bribe  on  the  side  and  a  promise 


60  — 


to  keep  the  act  of  criminality  a  secret  from  Uncle  "John 
induces  the  maid  to  provide  us  with  clean  sheets,  Che 
small  looking  glass  in  room  No.  i  positively  startled  me 
for  on  looking  into  it  X  discovered  that  my  left  cheek  was 
very  much  swollen.  Upon  feeling  of  it  X  made  the  discovery 
that  the  supposed  swelling  was  caused  by  waves  in  the 
glass  so  X  next  day  varied  the  monotony  by  turning  the 
glass  upside  down  which  had  the  effect  of  reducing  the 
swelling  of  the  left  cheek  and  instead  transferred  it  to  the 
right,  much  to  my  comfort  of  mind. 

Ulc  are  called  down  to  our  supper.  Bacon  and  eggs 
were  the  main  course.  H  taste  of  the  eggs  convinced  all 
that  they  were  of  the  kind  known  in  the  Ulest  as  “pickled” 
so  we  turned  to  our  bread  and  butter  and  after  a  taste  we 
decided  to  dispense  with  the  butter  and  dipped  our  bread 
into  the  honey,  leaving  the  large  Bermuda  onions  untouched 
on  the  table,  promising  ourselves  a  better  breakfast  when 
the  cook  would  have  bad  the  time  to  prepare  for  us.  Xt 
was  astonishing  to  watch  fitz  consume  the  immense 
quantities  of  bacon  and  “aigs”  urging  the  party  to  “pitch 
in  and  help  themselves”. 

Hftcr  supper  we  wandered  out  before  the  group  of 
bouses  and  then  discovered  that  the  fence  around  one  of 
them  was  composed  entirely  of  elk  horns,  which  bad 
been  picked  up  in  the  mountains  and  plains  in  the  neighbor¬ 
hood. 

H  search  for  a  cigar  brought  me  back  to  the  office  where 
Col.  ^ancey  produced  a  box  of  cigars  reserved  for  such  of 
his  visitors  as  came  from  the  effete  Bast.  Hn  inspection 
of  the  box  showed  that  at  least  the  name  was  intended  for 
the  <Hcst :  “Red  Rooster”  made  by  fee  of  Detroit. 

H  call  for  another  drink  around  developed  a  character¬ 
istic  of  Uncle  3obn,  which  was,  that  be  never  gave  back  any 
change.  Xf  a  quarter  was  given  him  for  a  ten  cent  drink  the 
customer  had  the  privilege  of  taking  two  more  drinks  or  go 
without  the  drinks  or  bis  change  just  as  he  chose. 

Old  Unde  John  threw  a  horse-blanket  next  to  the 
crackling  stove,  lighted  a  cigar  and  then  stretched  himself 
on  his  blanket.  Before  the  stove  on  the  only  chair  in  the 


6  j  — 


room  X  sat  puffing  my  Red  Rooster  and  in  the  background 
seated  on  saddles  were  the  dim  figures  of  fitz  and  Bob* 
Che  entire  room  derived  it's  light  from  a  lantern  standing 
upon  the  bar. 

On  being  told  by  Uncle  'John  that  Bob  was  quite  a 
singer  he  was  finally  coaxed  to  give  us  a  song.  It  must 
have  consisted  of  at  least  twenty  verses  but  X  have  been  able 
to  retain  the  first  only  and  it  ran  about  as  follows; 

"My  name  is  "Joe  Bower, 

I've  got  a  brother  Ike, 

X  come  from  old  Missouri, 

Yes,  all  the  way  from  pike. 

I'll  tell  you  why  X  left  there 
Hnd  how  X  came  to  roam 
Hnd  leave  my  poor  old  Mammy 
Bo  far  away  from  home." 

Che  song  was  so  pleasing  that  Bob  was  asked  several 
times  to  “Licker  up"  which  he  did  with  rapidly  diminishing 
backwardness  and  as  the  evening  wore  along  without  even 
an  invitation,  fit z  had  advised  me  that  Uncle  John  was 
full  of  old  border  talcs  but  could  rarely  be  brought  to  spin 
his  yams.  Uihether  it  was  because  he  was  more  commun¬ 
icative  than  usual  or  because  the  conversation  bad  been 
adroitly  led  into  the  right  direction,  at  any  rate,  be  began  by 
telling  of  the  battle  of  the  Rosebud  and  the  massacre  of 
Custer  and  his  forces  by  Bitting  Bull  and  bis  braves. 

F>e  bad  personally  warned  Custer  of  the  danger  be  was 
recklessly  rushing  into,  fte  himself  and  a  party  of  twenty- 
five  scouts,  trappers  and  traders  bad  been  for  weeks  in  the 
same  section  continually  surrounded  by  these  same  Indians 
but  were  not  attacked  because  they  guarded  against  occupy¬ 
ing  such  a  position  as  would  give  the  Indians  an  advantage 
and  according  to  bis  version  they  attacked  only  if  such  was 
the  case. 

from  bis  positive  assertions  it  was  plain  that  be  re¬ 
garded  Reno  as  a  miserable  coward  who  could  have  come  to 
Custer's  rescue  at  any  time. 

f)e  then  drifted  off  into  tales  of  the  Crow  Indians 
with  whom  he  had  traded  for  many  years  and  described 


* 


—  62  — 


encounters  of  white  men  with  parties  of  Indians.  HU  his 
stories  bore  the  stamp  of  truth. 

physical  tiredness  cn  my  part  made  it  necessary  to 
break  off  the  most  interesting  evening's  entertainment  and 
I  retired  to  room  number  two. 

Che  Chill  of  the  night  air  which  wafted  in  through 
the  broken  pane  of  glass  caused  me  to  forget  that  the  bed 
covering  was  black  with  use  and  I  drew  it  tightly  around 
myself  and  dozed  off  but  was  suddenly  awakened  by  the 
weird  howl  of  a  coyote. 

Dropping  off  again  I  slept  soundly  until  morning,  when 
we  were  called  for  breakfast  at  about  six* 


Chapter  9. 


H  fISf>IN6  CRIP, 

RBHKfHSC  was  a  repetition  of  the  supper 
P1**™0119  night  but  we  had  the  honor 
of  the  company  of  Col.  Yancey  and  the  only 
Tfc  difference  to  be  observed  in  his  appearance 
JjF  from  the  evening  before  being  that  his  hair 
was  still  oilier  if  such  a  thing  was  possible. 

Cvcrett  had  brought  along  the  can  of  syrup  that  he  had 
found  in  the  cache  at  Cower  falls  and  we  ate  freely  of  the 
bread  dipped  in  the  syrup.  Uncle  ?obn  urged  us  to  eat 
some  of  the  raw  Bermuda  onions  as  according  to  bis  theory 
they  were  particularly  healthful  at  breakfast  “Bein  good  for 
the  narvs”. 

Breakfast  finished  we  made  our  selection  of  fish  poles 
and  started  out  and  saw  the  rising  sun. 

Ule  watched  the  rosy  fingered  Cos-daughter  of  the  morn 
gild  the  towers  and  spires  of  stone,  and  leap  from  dome  to 
dome  and  cliff  to  cliff. 

Ule  were  doubly  anxious  to  make  a  catch  of  fish  so  that 
we  might  have  something  palatable  to  cat.  Hfter  we  bad 
ridden  perhaps  half  a  mile  we  saw  standing  in  the  centre  of 
the  road  a  herd  of  cattle,  the  bull  being  foremost.  <Qc  told 
one  another  how  mankind  dominated  over  the  animal  king¬ 
dom  by  force  of  intellect,  etc.,  etc.,  and  with  a  perfect  burst 
of  speed  waving  our  fish-poles  in  the  air,  we  charged  the 
herd  of  cattle  but  noticed  that  the  bull,  handsome  fellow 
that  be  was,  did  not  move  from  bis  tracks  but  lowered  bis 
head  and  defiantly  waved  bis  narrative  in  the  air  as  if 
getting  ready  to  charge.  Ulc  suddenly  stopped  and  gave 
him  and  his  followers  a  wide  berth.  Ule  all  admitted  his 


—  64  — 


courage  but  questioned  bis  judgment.  Shortly  after  we  ran 
across  a  herd  of  antelope  which  quickly  scampered  away  on 
our  appearance,  <Xlc  strike  the  Lamar  River  and  in  fording 
it  found  that  the  entire  bottom  consisted  of  stones  and 
boulders. 

Bmma  and  Bverett  rode  ahead  of  us  and  suddenly  a 
bunch  of  soldiers  passed  us  on  a  gallop,  Che  advance  riders 
of  our  party  hearing  the  rapid  boofbeats  supposed  that  wc 
were  trying  to  pass  them  and  let  out  their  horses.  Bmma, 
whose  Bird  touched  the  road  in  high  spots  only  soon  left 
Bverett  behind  and  it  was  only  after  a  long  ride  that  she 
pulled  up  her  horse  and  the  soldiers  caught  up  to  her. 

Our  horses  although  perspiring  freely  from  the  sharp 
ride  to  this  point  were  allowed  to  drink  of  the  icy  cold 
water  of  a  creek  to  their  hearts  content,  it  being  a  curious 
fact  that  these  mountain  horses  seemed  to  feel  no  ill  effects 
from  such  indulgence  while  their  better  favored  brethren  in 
the  Bast  would  be  ruined  for  life  if  allowed  to  indulge 
similarly. 

Che  road  now  slopes  gradually  until  we  reach  Slough 
Creek  (Slue  Creek  as  it  is  pronounced  by  fitz). 

Coming  to  a  finely  wooded  spot  of  scrub  poplar  and 
aspens  wc  dismount  and  stripping  our  horses  of  saddles 
and  bridles  allow  them  to  forage  for  themselves  in  the  deep 
buffalo  grass  which  is  very  luxuriant  in  this  valley. 

Bach  of  the  party  is  given  a  hook  :  fitz  carrying  the 
book  of  hooks  and  flies  in  bis  pocket  and  we  all  set  out  to 
catch  grasshoppers  which  we  are  told  are  the  best  bait  for 
the  trout  in  this  stream,  fortunately  the  grasshoppers 
were  plentiful  and  each  of  the  party  selects  what  appears  to 
him  a  most  desirable  spot  for  fishing. 

One  of  my  friends  (David  Cilt,  of  Chicago)  bad  made 
me  a  handsome  pair  of  knee  boots  and  X  felt  that  X  was 
perfectly  safe  and  waded  into  the  rapid  running  stream.  H 
careless  step  and  the  water-proof  boots  were  filled  by  the 
icy  water  running  in  at  the  top. 

Casting  for  full  half  an  hour  by  this  method  convinces 
me  that  some  other  plan  would  have  to  be  followed  or  the 
fishing  would  be  fruitless.  Pandering  up  the  creek  X  espied 


—  65  — 

Uncle  frank  who  had  come  in  this  direction  looking  for  a 
favored  spot  and  for  some  time  one  blamed  the  other  for 
frightening  away  the  fish* 

X  finally  saw  a  magnificent  salmon  trout  leisurely 
approaching  my  grasshopper  and  with  a  rush  he  took  the 
bait.  Playing  him  for  a  few  minutes  X  gradually  worked 
him  toward  the  shore,  falling  down  the  steep  embankment 
during  the  excitement  and  landing  on  bands  and  feet  in  the 
water  but  on  recovering  myself  find  my  prey  still  tugging 
at  the  book.  <Uitb  a  great  deal  of  caution  X  again  work 
him  toward  the  shore  but  when  attempting  to  land  him  be 
slipped  off  the  hook  and  disappeared. 

Very  much  chagrined  X  again  baited  the  hook  and 
scarcely  credited  my  senses  on  seeing  my  old  time  victim 
beading  for  bis  second  meal.  F>c  again  took  the  book  with 
a  rush  and  the  same  maneuver  was  repeated,  only  excepting 
the  fall  from  the  embankment.  Che  second  attempt  to 
land  him  met  with  the  same  result  as  before,  he  simply 
seemed  to  drop  off  the  book.  Drawing  tn  the  line  and 
examining  the  book  X  find  that  the  barb  bad  in  some  way 
been  broken  off.  Searching  through  all  my  pockets  X  dis¬ 
covered  that  it  was  the  only  hook  that  X  bad  with  me  and 
instead  of  Sheridan  it  was  fitz  with  the  books  who  was 
two  miles  away.  X  sat  down  on  the  bank,  cussed  just  a  bit 
and  then  enjoyed  the  rippling  of  the  stream  hurrying  on  its 
way  to  the  Yellowstone  River. 

Uncle  frank  at  this  time  hove  in  sight  and  while  telling 
him  just  bow  it  had  happened  and  where  it  bad  happened  X 
suddenly  again  caught  sight  of  Mr.  Speckled  Beauty  who 
bad  done  so  much  to  bring  discomfiture  upon  me. 

Che  water  was  as  clear  as  crystal  and  every  motion  of 
this  prince  could  be  observed.  (He  both  ran  for  the  prairie 
in  quest  of  more  grasshoppers  which  fortunately  were  soon 
gotten  and  hurrying  back  to  our  observation  point  there  be 
still  stood,  scarcely  moving  a  fin  and  looking  around  for 
food.  Uncle  frank  dropped  in  bis  luscious  locust  and  it 
was  tantalizing  to  see  with  what  disdain  the  previous 
greedy  chap  looked  at  the  book.  f)e  would  rise  and  snap  at 
twigs  and  dry  leaves  floating  down  the  current  but  seemed 


-  66  — 


to  pay  no  attention  to  the  bait  which  was  dangled  before 
him  in  the  most  alluring  manner,  finally  it  occured  to 
Uncle  frank  to  skip  the  grasshopper  over  the  surface  of  the 
water  and  the  ruse  was  successful ;  with  a  rush  he  took  the 
grasshopper  and  Uncle  frank  who  does  not  believe  in 
wasting  time  even  playing  a  trout,  jerked  him  out  of  his 
watery  element,  throwing  him  at  least  ten  feet  into  the 
brush. 

Ule  spent  much  time  in  admiring  what  X  advisedly 
call  “our  catch”,  from  that  time  on  good  fortune  seemed 
to  follow  Uncle  frank  and  he  soon  added  five  more  equally 
large  salmon  trout  to  his  string. 

(He  rejoined  our  party  and  found  that  Bverett  had 
caught  one  small  trout  and  6m ma  none. 

Hfter  luncheon  I  again  adopted  my  wading  tactics :  X 
caught  no  fish  when  X  waded ;  caught  none  when  X  stood 
on  the  bank  and  so  yielded  to  the  pleasure  of  feeling  the 
ineffectual  efforts  of  the  creek  to  sweep  me  off  my  feet, 
finally  rejoining  the  party  on  the  shore  X  dangled  my  hook 
in  the  water  and  was  awakened  from  a  revery  by  a  tug  at 
the  end  of  the  line.  Xterking  the  line  “sans  ceremonie“  X 
landed  a  little  four  inch  trout  which  becoming  disengaged 
from  my  barbless  hook,  fell  on  the  sand  and  Uncle  frank 
wishing  to  give  him  a  little  longer  lease  of  life  pushed  him 
into  a  puddle  of  water. 

It  growing  dark  we  decided  to  return,  and  hunted  for 
my  fish.  Ule  found  it  almost  impossible  to  capture  him  in 
the  puddle  and  it  took  all  the  perseverance  of  Uncle  frank 
and  myself  to  finally  secure  a  slimy  looking  little  fish. 

Catching  our  horses  which  had  found  good  pasturage 
close  by  we  saddled  them  and  in  the  exuberance  of  my 
spirits  riding  behind  Uncle  frank  X  prodded  “Kate”  with 
my  fishpole.  She  having  had  a  good  night  and  day  rest 
made  strenuous  efforts  to  get  out  of  my  reach.  Uncle 
frank  congratulated  himself  that  his  kind  treatment  of  his 
mount  had  so  encouraged  her  that  she  was  rapidly  develop¬ 
ing  into  a  free  going  saddle-horse. 

Caking  a  different  route  from  the  one  we  had  come  we 
passed  what  is  known  as  the  “fossil  forest”.  Ule  were 


-  67  — 

much  tempted  to  make  the  steep  climb  up  to  it  but  fit z 
informed  us  that  we  would  the  next  day  see  the  best 
specimens  of  petrified  trees  in  the  park. 

On  Gmma's  asking  what  the  fossil  forest  really  was 
be  told  her  that  it  consisted  of  petrified  trees  on  the 
branches  of  which  sat  petrified  birds,  tip  to  this  point 
she  had  listened  most  credulously  but  when  he  added  that 
they  were  singing  petrified  songs  she  turned  her  back  on 
him  with  a  sniff  which  caused  him,  the  hearty  soulcd  old 
fellow,  to  give  vent  to  a  boyish,  prolonged  roar. 

Hrriving  at  Yancey's  we  hurriedly  deposited  our  fish 
with  the  cook.  Uncle  f  rank  gave  strict  instructions  that 
they  be  fried,  as  according  to  him,  only  fried  fish  are  fit  to 
eat.  tdhen  the  meal  was  cooked  we  all  went  in  to  supper 
but  a  disappointed  look  appeared  on  every  face  after  tasting 
the  handsome  brown  fried  fish.  Cbey  had  been  fried  in  the 
wagon  grease  butter  and  the  flavor  of  that  article  was  sub¬ 
stituted  for  that  of  freshly  caught  trout,  fortunately  not 
all  our  catch  bad  been  fried  and  the  cook  was  requested  to 
fry  the  balance  with  bacon  next  morning  for  breakfast. 

X  bad  told  the  party  of  the  interesting  evening  spent 
with  Uncle  John  in  his  office  and  so  all  adjourned  to  it  after 
supper.  Che  Kentucky  Red  Bye  was  set  out  on  the  bar  and 
the  box  of  Red  Roosters  next  to  it  and  we  settled  down  for 
our  evening's  entertainment. 

I  bad  discovered  a  handsome  pair  of  antlers  lying  in  a 
corner  of  “Yancey's  enclosure  and  tried  to  persuade  him  to  sell 
them  to  me  but  as  they  belonged  to  an  engineer,  who  be 
expected  would  return,  he  did  not  feel  at  liberty  to  do  so. 

Quite  a  strong  wind  bad  blown  up  in  the  meantime  and 
we  beard  it  howling  about  the  log  bouse. 

“Yancey's  entire  settlement  consisted  of  three  log  bouses 
and  a  log  barn  some  distance  away.  Only  one  of  the  log 
bouses  was  two-storied  and  not  one  of  them  was  over 
twenty  feet  long  by  fifteen  feet  wide. 

Upon  Uncle  ^obn  telling  us  of  the  visitors  he  occasion¬ 
ally  bad,  he  was  asked  how  many  be  could  take  care  of ;  he 
replied  that  on  a  pinch  be  could  accomodate  one  hundred  and 
fifty,  although  be  had  never  been  called  on  to  provide  for 


-  68  - 


that  many.  F)e  not  being  a  provident  man,  no  great  im¬ 
posing  bay-stacks  were  visible  and  the  question  still  remains, 
where  would  be  put  them  ? 

X  bad  taken  off  my  boots  and  was  bolding  them  in  all 
sorts  of  positions  before  the  crackling  stove,  in  my  attempt 
to  dry  them,  and  bad  just  gotten  ^ancey  started  telling 
about  when  be  first  began  trading  with  the  Crow  Indians 
when  suddenly  the  door  opened  and  followed  by  a  gust  of 
wind  a  man  stumbled  into  the  room,  fitz  gave  the  door  a 
kick,  when  it  flew  shut  and  was  just  as  suddenly  burst 
open  again  and  in  stumbled  another  man.  Both  of  them 
instinctively  beaded  for  our  saddles  which  were  lying  in 
heaps  on  the  floor  and  squattet  down  on  them.  Ulitb 
many  a  course  about  the  weather,  the  wind,  the  road  and 
themselves  and  the  rest  of  creation  they  opened  the  con¬ 
versation. 

fitz  quietly  motioned  to  6mma  and  they  departed 
followed  by  Uncle  frank  and  Bverett.  I  was  hindered  from 
doing  likewise  by  not  being  able  to  get  on  my  wet  boots. 
X  sat  quietly  when  X  was  suddenly  accosted  and  asked 
to  join  the  party  in  flickering  up".  Uncle  'John  and  Bob 
accepted  the  invitation  to  flicker  up"  but  X  politely  refused. 
]^ext,  with  diverse  oaths  came  a  request  from  the  partner 
to  take  a  smoke  then.  Bavtng  a  freshly  lighted  cigar  in  my 
mouth  X  refused  but  instantly  regretted  having  refused  both 
invitations,  as  at  that  minute,  X  re-called  that  it  was  one 
of  the  playful  pastimes  of  these  gentle  sons  of  the  Uloolly 
COest  to  make  tenderfeet  who  bad  refused  invitations  to 
drink  or  bad  otherwise  made  themselves  disliked,  dance,  by 
shooting  at  thetr  feet. 

UHtb  a  significant  intonation  of  the  voice  they  in 
unison  asked  one  another,  44 Ulbats  the  matter  with  that 
fellow?",  when  Bob  who  evidently  knew  what  was  coming, 
walked  up  to  one  and  jabbing  an  out-stretched  finger  into 
his  chest  said, 44 Bay !  F)ide  Bound  Bannigan,  the  gent  don't 
want  to  drink,  see !  and  when  the  gent  don't  want  to  drink 
be  don't  have  to,  see"  and  then  turning  to  the  other  and 
with  the  same  jab  in  the  ribs  continued,  “Say,  pie-Moutbed 
pete,  the  gent  don't  want  to  smoke,  see !  and  if  the  gent 


69  - 


don't  want  to  smoke  He  don't  Have  to,  see,  and  no  fellow  can 
make  him  drink  while  I  am  around,  see !" 

By  this  time  X  had  managed  to  get  my  boots  on  and 
arose  and  with  a  very  polite  good-night  stepped  out  of  the 
door  closely  followed  by  Bob  who  invited  me  to  visit  him 
at  his  shanty  which  was  only  a  few  rods  distant.  SQitb 
gratitude  toward  him  in  my  heart  X  willingly  accepted  and 
followed  his  lead  along  the  pitch  dark  path. 

Hrriving  at  his  shanty  he  lighted  his  candle  which  was 
set  in  the  top  of  a  bottle  and  pushing  off  some  articles  of 
clothing  from  the  only  chair  for  me  he  squatted  himself  on 
the  top  of  the  bed. 

X  asked  him  what  he  was  doing  in  this  part  of  the 
country  and  how  he  had  come  to  locate  here.  Suddenly 
dropping  his  rough  language  he  from  then  on  spoke  in  correct 
Bnglish  telling  me  that  he  was  the  son  of  a  minister. 
(Later  on  X  learnt  that  a  majority  of  the  no-accounts  in  the 
3Qcst  claim  to  be  either  sons  or  relatives  of  ministers, 
they  evidently  feeling  that  such  a  relationship  gives  them 
distinction  and  entitles  them  to  some  respect  for  their 
relationship  at  least.)  Continuing  he  related  that  he  had 
taken  up  gambling  for  a  living.  F>e  bad  gradually  become 
addicted  to  drink  and  in  the  hopes  of  breaking  off  bad  hired 
out  to  the  Q.  S.  government  for  one  year  to  take  care  of 
some  horses  which  were  herded  at  this  point.  f)e  had  only 
five  more  months  to  serve  and  he  felt  well  satisfied  with 
the  mastery  he  bad  obtained  over  bis  desire  for  drink, 
•prom  bis  exhibition  at  Yancey's  office  X  would  not  have 
concluded  that  be  bad  made  any  progress  but  be  thought  be 
bad  and  be  ought  to  have  known.  f)c  ended  by  saying  that 
when  bis  year  was  over  be  would  lead  a  respectable  life.  X 
asked  him  what  be  intended  to  take  up  for  his  livelihood,  be 
answered,  “Gambling,  of  course,  but  X  will  give  up 
drinking".  Bringing  out  a  box  be  banded  me  a  pair  of  new 
socks.  On  my  thanking  him  and  drawing  my  wallet  for 
the  purpose  of  paying  him  he  insisted  that  X  should  accept 
them  as  a  gift ;  and  added  that  he  bad  beard  me  ask  \anccy 
for  his  pair  of  elk  horns  and  that  he  had  decided  to  give  me 
a  pair,  suiting  his  actions  to  his  words  he  climbed  up  a 


—  70  — 


ladder  into  the  attic  of  his  log-house  and  passed  down  a 
pair  of  handsome  antlers,  as  fine  a  pair  as  I  had  ever  seen* 
X  told  him  that  X  would  willingly  pay  him  for  them  but 
he  insisted  that  X  should  receive  them  as  a  gift,  adding 
further  that  he  would  take  them  to  Gardiner  for  me  (which 
was  at  least  thirty  miles  distant)  the  next  time  he  rode 
there. 

X  asked  him  why  he  was  so  exeedingly  generous  with 
me  and  he  told  me  that  it  was  because  of  my  insisting  that 
he  join  our  party  in  taking  a  drink  when  we  first  arrived  at 
Yancey's.  “Generally”,  said  he,  “City  people  pay  no 
attention  to  a’  low  down  cuss  like  me  and  X  tell  you  X 
appreciated  your  invitation”.  X  thanked  him  but  am  frank 
to  say  that  X  little  expected  to  receive  the  horns,  but  weeks 
after  arriving  home  in  Detroit  the  horns  arrived  carefully 
crated  and  X  value  them  for  the  memory  of  my  stop  at 
Xanceys. 

X  incidentally  asked  Bob  what  he  thought  the  reason 
for  Yancey's  longevity.  F)e  replied  that  he  supposed  they 
had  not  got  hell  hot  enough  for  the  old  man  yet. 

Che  next  morning  after  a  breakfast,  which  was  simply 
a  repetition  of  the  other  meals  had  at  Yancey's,  we  made  an 
early  start.  H  steep  climb  starting  in  directly  back  of 
Yancey's  brings  us  to  two  petrified  trees  which  stand  all 
alone  on  the  side  of  the  hill.  Che  larger  one  is  three  feet  in 
diameter  and  the  trunk  about  twenty  feet  high. 

Che  entire  tree  to  the  core  has  turned  into  a  many  hued 
stone.  Both  below  and  on  both  sides  some  little  distance 
away  a  young  growth  of  trees  is  springing  up,  showing  that 
the  soil  at  least  on  the  top  is  still  capable  of  growing  trees 
and  my  explanation  is  that  these  older  trees  in  sending  their 
roots  down  sufficiently  far  struck  a  vein  of  water  which 
is  strongly  impregnated  with  calcium  and  that  this  water 
after  the  trees  had  died  off  had  continued  to  mount  up  into 
the  tree,  because  of  capillary  attraction,  and  the  water 
evaporating  left  a  deposit  of  stone. 

“Xn  ages  gone  these  olden  trees 
Perchance  overlooked  some  inland  seas 
CCihose  rippling  waves 


Bore  on  their  flood  some  unknown  race. 
Ulho  had  their  season,  time  and  place 
Now  in  their  graves  — 

\ct  still  they  cast  their  shadows  down 
Like  ancient  warriors  grim  and  brown”. 
Che  horses 


had  exerted 
themselves 
so  severely 
in  reaching 
this  point 
that 
Bmma's 
horse 

“Bird”  lay 
down  with 
her  on  his 
back.  <flc 
all  dis¬ 
mounted 
and  lead  our 
horses  back 
to  the  road¬ 
way  which 
ascends 
steadily^ 
until  we 
reach  the 
“Undine 
falls”,  to 

obtain  a  view  of  which  wc  climbed  out  upon  a  projecting 
crag. 

Beyond  here  the  road  steadily  descends  and  this 
continuous  descent  is  more  tiresome  for  both  rider  and 
horse  than  are  the  climbs. 

UIc  reached  the  Mammoth  f>ot  Springs  at  1.30  p.  M« 
and  this  ends  our  ride.  Our  baggage  had  gone  before  us 
and  all  went  in  for  a  hot  bath  and  then  exchanged  our 
corduroy  suits  for  the  regulation  traveling  clothes. 


_  72  __ 


<Hc  are  all  anxious  to  get  away  from  this  hotel  and 
make  arrangements  to  have  ourselves  and  baggage  conveyed 
to  Cinnabar.  Hfter  a  hasty  supper  wie  depart . . .  Our 
driver  being  a  lanky,  sour-faced  looking  individual,  who,  as 
we  soon  discover,  is  under  the  influence  of  liquor  which  in 
him  took  the  persecution  form,  everybody  was  down  on 
him  and  “some  day  they  would  wake  up  and  find  he  had 
done  them  up/'  F)is  horses  were  worth  their  weight  in  gold 
but  they  were  tired  and  the  stage  company  in  their  desire  to 
persecute  him  had  forced  him  to  take  them  out  again  after 
having  gone  twenty  miles  that  day.  Che  evening  was  dark 
and  we  all  felt  relieved  when  we  struck  Gardiner  as  from 
this  on  the  road  was  level  and  there  was  less  fear  of  our 
meeting  with  an  accident. 

<Kihtle  passing  through  this  place  we  were  hailed  by  our 
old  fitz  who  had  preceded  us  and  with  a  hearty  handshake 
we  parted  from  our  efficient  guide. 

Our  train  left  Cinnabar  at  nine  o'clock  and  we  bade 
good-bye  to  the  Yellowstone  park,  a  description  of  which 
would  fill  a  book  and  every  page  would  have  bis  picture, 
since  no  written  words  can  describe  the  wonders  of  this 
land  of  wonders.  Cbey  are  not  just  here  and  there,  but 
every  where.  In  all  of  the  more  than  one  hundred  miles  of 
ride  there  is  not  a  weary  mile  among  them ;  not  a  monoton¬ 
ous  minute ;  of  the  geysers  there  is  not  one  that  is  like  the 
others,  of  the  translucent  pools  their  waters  are  many-bued 
and  each  seeming  more  prismatic  in  its  beauty  than  the 
others.  Che  scenic  splendor  of  mountain  and  valley  views 
is  unsurpassed  in  all  this  broad  land  and  like  a  picture  of 
almost  sublime  grandeur  it  opens  to  another  in  that  grandest 
of  all,  the  Grand  Canyon,  the  spreading  waters  of  the  lake 
hemmed  in  by  giant  mountains  finds  one  outlet  only  in  the 
rushing  waters  that  go  on  forever. 

Che  park  is  our  National  Museum  of  Natural  ftistory 
and  is  filled  with  volcanic  foot-prints  of  the  pliocene  period. 
“Co  the  open  ear  it  sings 
Sweet  the  genesis  of  things 
Of  chemic  matter,  force  and  form, 

Of  poles  and  powers,  cold,  wet  and  warm." 


Chapter  10* 


IJVCO  M OJNTCHNH. 

r>6  train  had  been  lying  at  a  siding  at  Logan 
until  8:30  In  the  morning  when  we  changed 
care  for  Butte,  Montana,  as  we  have  a  desire 
to  see  what  Is  known  as  the  toughest  city  In 
the  United  States*  <He  arrive  there  at  eleven 
o'clock  on  frlday,  the  i3tb  of  September* 
6n  route  we  pass  through  some  of  the  wildest  boulder 
country  that  we  have  yet  seen* 

Between  Logan  and  Butte  we  ride  along  the  Missouri 
River  and  one  Involuntarily  asks  himself  how  such  a  clean 
river  can  during  Its  life  time  get  so  dirty  as  It  Is  at  St* 
Louis  for  Instance,  and  If  one  has  any  talent  for  moralizing 
he  will  probably  Immediately  draw  a  comparison  between 
this  son  of  the  hills  and  many  sons  of  human  beings* 

Ht  last  the  hills  open  and  we  are  In  a  wide  plateau 
entirely  surrounded  by  cone  shaped  hills,  no  tree,  no  shrub, 
neither  garden,  nor  field,  nor  meadow  In  this  plain*  Chrough 
the  sand  the  dirty  water  of  the  copper  mines  slckers,  which 
are  up  the  walls  of  these  hills,  the  city  starting  at  the  foot 
of  them  and  over  the  whole  a  cloud  of  smoke  and  sulphur 
fumes  hovers* 

If  the  surface  of  the  earth  docs  not  afford  humanity  a 
means  for  life  It  gets  It  out  of  the  ground  and  here 
thousands  go  down  Into  the  mines  and  cut  of  hundreds  of 
shafts  copper,  sliver  and  gold  ore  Is  brought  up  and  carried 
to  the  smelting  works* 

Che  city  of  Butte  has  four  smelters  and  still  over  five 
thousand  tons  of  ore  arc  sent  dally  to  the  thirty  mile 
distant  Hnaccnda  where  one  of  the  greatest  copper  smelters 


—  75  — 


of  the  world  Is  located  belonging  to  the  Hmalgamated 
Company,  at  the  head  of  which  Is  Senator  Clark. 

Cde  take  a  carriage  and  drive  to  a  first  class  restaurant 
where  an  exceptionally  good  meal  Is  served  and  then  drive 
through  the  city.  It  makes  a  most  peculiar  Impression. 
Che  main  street  has  on  It  some  very  fine  business  edifices 
and  right  adjoining  them  some  tumble  down  frame 
buildings.  Che  best  built  up  business  block  In  the  city  has 
eight  saloons  so  that  at  least  every  third  building  Is  occupied 
by  a  "Cheer  Dispensary.”  One  of  them  bore  the  following 
Inviting  sign  In  the  window,  "No  rubbernecks  wanted  In 
here.” 

(He  then  drove  to  the  so-called  F>elnzc  Smelter ;  at  the 
office  we  obtained  permission  to  go  through  It,  which  was 
quite  Interesting  but  the  odor  of  Chlorine  was  positively 
suffocating  and  affected  Bmma's  throat  so  badly  that  we 
hurried  to  get  out  of  the  neighborhood.  3de  think  back  to 
the  visit  with  especial  Interest  as  It  was  this  man  Relnzc 
who  broke  the  price  of  the  Hmalgamated  Copper  Mines  Co., 
the  stock  decline  of  which  had  such  a  disastrous  effect  on 
one  of  our  Detroit  banks. 

Sde  are  driven  along  the  residence  street.  On  one  of  the 
finest  corners  Is  built  the  palace  of  Sen.  Clark,  one  of  the 
very  wealthiest  men  In  the  Northwest.  Nearby  Is  the  only 
tree  In  the  city  of  Butte  and  although  dead,  that  tree  Is  so 
great  a  curiosity  that  pictures  of  It  are  sold  at  the  news¬ 
stands. 

Ht  four  p.  M.  we  took  the  Oregon  Short  line  for  Salt 
Lake  City  which  Is  four  hundred  eight  miles  directly  south 
of  Butte  and  takes  us  through  the  entire  state  of  Idaho. 
Ht  Lima  we  pass  through  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  arrive 
at  Salt  Lake  City  at  seven  In  the  morning. 

Ht  the  depot  we  were  met  by  Messrs.  Bfflnger  and 
7effs,  friends  of  the  plngrees,  who  took  us  In  carriages  to 
a  restaurant  which  was  conducted  by  Mormons.  Bfflnger's 
order  was  for  "two  clucke  and  a  grunt”,  and  It  was  with  a 
great  deal  of  curiosity  that  we  awaited  the  result  of  this 
odd  CQestern  order.  Che  explanation  was  plain  when  the 
waiter  brought  two  fried  eggs  and  a  rasher  of  bacon. 


—  7e  — 

QXe  were  driven  to  the  Kenyon  hotel  which  is  also  con- 
ducted  by  Mormons.  <£ie  later  walked  around  the  Cemple 
and  Cabernacle,  admired  the  wide  streets,  the  house  which 
Brigham  built  for  Bliza  and  were  particularly  struck  by  the 
odd  position  of  the  statue  of  him  which  stands  at  the  inter¬ 
section  of  the  corners  which  are  graced  respectively,  by  the 
temple  and  the  Bank  of  Zion.  Brigham  faces  the  Bank 
holding  out  his  hand  and  has  his  back  turned  to  the  temple 
with  his  face  slightly  turned  toward  what  was  once  the 
home  of  Bliza  and  a  superficial  observation  of  life  among 
the  Mormons  seems  to  present  a  peculiar  admixture  of 
commercialism,  love  and  religion. 

Q3e  learn  that  the  church  of  Zion  has  competition  by 
the  Methodists  and  Bpiscopalians. 

Chere  is  one  lodge  of  free  Masons  and  X  was  proud  to 
learn  that  the  Masons  had  done  one  of  those  real  things  by 
founding  and  keeping  up  a  public  library. 

Che  first  domestic  manufacture  introduced  into  the 
Mormon  settlement  was  the  tanning  of  leather ;  and  to  this 
leather  was  given  the  distinctive  title  of  “Talley  “Can"  it 
being  tanned  in  the  valley.  Hs  other  articles  were  made  by 
the  isolated  people,  each  was  called  “Talley  Can”  to 
distinguish  it  from  the  imported  article  and  perhaps 
naturally  even  the  first  newspaper  was  called  the  “Talley 
Can”. 

Hs  on  this  day  the  grand  organ  in  the  tabernacle  was 
to  play  in  memory  of  the  dead  president  McKinlay  we  hur¬ 
ried  in  so  as  to  secure  good  seats  which  we  did  in  the 
gallery.  Che  description  of  the  tabernacle  has  often  been 
written  and  I  will  only  take  time  to  say  that  it  was  built 
in  the  early  days  of  mormonism  in  what  was  then  a  desert, 
under  the  greatest  difficulties.  It  is  roughly  egg-shaped 
and  the  acoustic  is  truly  wonderful. 

Music  was  rendered  by  a  choir  accompanied  by  the 
organ  and  was  truly  inspiring.  Che  organ  had  notes  such 
as  I  had  never  heard  before,  for  instance,  a  clear  baritone 
and  a  very  sweet  soprano  and  it  was  most  difficult  to 
distinguish  at  times  whether  the  volume  of  sound  came 
from  the  choir  or  the  organ. 


—  77  — 


In  the  afternoon  we  took  a  railroad  ride  to  the 
celebrated  Salt  Lake.  Qpon  its  shore  has  been  built  a  very 
large  frame  structure  which  is  entirely  devoted  to  amuse¬ 
ments.  Che  second  floor  is  one  vast  expanse  and  is  the 
dancing  floor,  probably  the  largest  area  in  the  Onited  States 
devoted  to  this  form  of  amusement. 

CQc  sat  on  the  veranda  overlooking  the  beautiful  lake 
out  of  the  center  of  which  rises  a  magnificent  rocky  island. 
Che  lake  is  surrounded  by  towering  mountains  except  to 
the  westward  of  “Saltair”  (the  name  of  the  place  of 
amusement)  and  here  the  view  loses  itself  in  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  desert. 

It  is  interesting  to  observe  women  going  into  the  water 
where  it  is  only  a  few  feet  deep,  lying  flat  upon  it  and 
remain  floating  without  any  effort.  Che  effort  becomes 
necessary  however  when  they  wish  to  regain  their  feet  which 
can  only  be  done  with  the  greatest  difficulty. 

Returning  it  was  our  intention  to  visit  a  mine  called 
“Che  Ophir”  which  is  located  in  southern  Utah  on  the 
border  of  Nevada. 

Mr.  Lathrop  of  the  mine  speculating  firm  of  Lathrop 
and  Bffingcr  accompanied  us.  Stic  took  the  train  in  the 
evening  for  Modena  which  is  two  hundred  eighty  six  miles 
south  of  Salt  Lake  City  and  arrived  there  early  next 
morning. 

In  the  evening  on  the  train  we  played  a  game  of  pedro 
with  Lathrop  and  a  brother-in-law  of  Bffinger,  who  is  a 
Lake  Superior  miner.  Che  luck  of  the  Detroit  contingent 
was  simply  phenomenal.  Co  this  must  be  added  the  poor 
playing  of  the  others.  Che  stakes  of  the  game  were  for  one 
dollar  a  corner  and  as  payment  was  made  in  cartwheel 
dollars  our  pockets  soon  bulged.  Our  host  and  his  partner 
grew  suspicious  of  our  luck  and  it  was  amusing  to  observe 
how  closely  they  watched  our  every  move.  It  was  absolutely 
necessary  for  us  to  intentionally  lose  some  games  and  at 
one  point  when  a  dispute  arose  I  decided  against  Chicle  frank 
and  this  seemed  to  effectually  disarm  their  suspicion.  Ht 
no  time  during  the  days  that  followed  did  any  of  that 
contingent  suggest  another  game. 


-  78  - 


Cbcrc  were  no  accomodations  for  eating  on  the  train 
and  on  our  arrival  at  Modena  in  the  gray  of  the  morning 
we  looked  around  for  some  hospitable  caravansary.  Lest 
Modena  be  given  an  importance  that  it  does  not  deserve  let 
me  tell  you  that  it  consists  of  a  water-tank,  a  low  rambling 
freight  shed  and  three  or  four  typical  Western  frame-houses, 
of  course  innocent  of  paint.  One  of  them  we  were  directed 
to,  as  being  the  “6ating-bouse”. 

Uncle  frank  took  the  lead  and  with  a  bland  and  would- 
be  persuasive  smile  addressed  the  barearmed  landlady  who 
presided  over  the  kitchen  stove  with  a  small  child  in  her 
arm.  Co  his  question  whether  we  might  have  breakfast  she 
replied  in  an  indifferent  she  “reckoned  we  might”. 

Off  the  dining  room  was  a  room  which  showed  two  or 
three  beds  in  the  greatest  possible  disorder  and  the  odor  that 
pervaded  the  house  can  only  be  produced  in  a  section  where 
bathtubs  are  unknown,  water  scarce  and  the  people  obliged 
to  herd  together. 

Ulc  were  all  glad  to  get  out  into  the  fresh  air  again  and 
took  our  seats  in  a  covered  democrat  wagon.  By  this  time 
the  sun  had  risen  and  it  had  turned  quite  warm,  so  when 
the  driver  began  to  fasten  up  a  heavy  leather  apron,  we 
protested  but  be  assured  us  that  we  would  soon  see  the 
usefulness  of  the  apron  and  before  fifteen  minutes  bad 
passed  we  bad  entered  upon  one  of  those  desolate  Ulestern 
deserts.  Che  sand  rolled  up  in  bucketfuls  and  in  spite  of  the 
leather  apron  it  entered  the  vehicle  through  every  crevice  and 
we  were  soon  covered  with  it. 

Ulbat  makes  this  sand  more  unpleasant  than  ordinary 
is  the  alkali  which  it  contains  and  which  causes  the  eyes  to 
smart  and  the  lips  to  chap. 

Hbout  ten  miles  from  Modena  we  came  upon  a  lone 
house  backed  against  the  foothills  of  a  chain  of  bills  fairly 
well  covered  with  timber.  CQe  were  told  that  this  bad  been 
the  habitation  of  one  of  those  <Uestern  heroes  of  romance 
that  had  in  former  days  exacted  toll  from  the  unwilling 
traveler.  f)is  house  stood  alongside  of  the  only  trail  and 
the  woods  and  hills  behind  it  offered  a  refuge  in  case  of 
pursuit.  Ule  where  much  interested  in  the  story  of  this 


—  79  — 


western  Dick  Curpin.  Che  hills  are  the  foothills  of  the 
Ulahsatcb  mountains,  Ulater  is  nowhere  to  be  seen  and 
the  railroad  company  was  forced  to  lay  a  pipe  fifteen  miles 
through  the  desert  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  water- 
tank  at  Modena. 

<Obcn  first  one  looks  upon  the  desert  it  is  most  deso¬ 
late  and  forbidding  but  even  as  it  is  railroads  are  being  built 
across  this  as  well  as  the  other  Hmerican  deserts,  and  none 
can  bar  human  activity.  Mines  are  being  opened  and  land  is 
being  reclaimed  by  irrigation.  In  all  the  Ulest,  look  as  you 
will,  you  will  find  no  desert  more  pitifully  forlorn,  more 
deserted,  more  irreclaimable,  and  more  worthless  than  the 
man-made  deserts  of  Northern  Michigan,  where  fire  has 
followed  the  heedless  lumberman  and  spread  a  black  and 
littered  waste  hundreds  of  square  miles  in  extent,  where 
once  grew  a  splendid  green  forest  of  pine. 

One  is  beautiful  with  the  perfected  grandeur  into  which 
nature  molds  even  the  most  unpromising  material;  the  other 
is  hideous,  grotesque,  pitiful,  a  reminder  of  the  reckless 
wastefulness  of  man. 

Che  natural  desert,  indeed,  abounds  in  a  strange  and 
beguiling  beauty  of  its  own,  that  lays  bold  upon  a  man's 
spirit,  perhaps  rudely  at  first,  yet  with  a  growing  fasci¬ 
nation  that,  once  deeply  felt,  forever  calls  and  calls  the 
wanderer  home  again.  In  the  spells  that  it  weaves  over  a 
man  it  is  like  the  sea:  the  love  of  the  sailor  for  bis  life  is 
not  more  faithful  than  that  of  those  bronzed  silent  riders 
of  the  desert  for  the  long,  hot  stretches  of  their  open  land. 

from  a  car-window  the  desert  seems  a  monotone,  in 
gray  or  red-brown,  without  character,  without  passion  or 
purpose,  and  it  suggests  an  endless  continuation  of  mono¬ 
tony  with  dust  forever  blowing,  and  glaring  white  sunshine, 
its  scant  vegetation  curious  and  repellant,  its  animal  life 
fierce  or  repulsive ;  but  seen  closely,  seen  with  the  heart,  a 
whole  new  world  will  open  to  you,  the  desert  will  take  you 
to  itself  and  teach  you  great,  calm,  wonderful  things,  and 
you  will  never  again  be  free  from  its  thrall.  Underneath 
what  seems  a  monotone  in  gray  or  brown  lies  splendid 
coloring  and  action ;  what  at  first  suggests  poverty,  proves 


—  So  — 


a  wealth  of  life,  which  19  forever  disclosing  new  wonders* 
Hnd,  note  the  pioneers,  find  miners  delving  in  the  earth  for 
gold,  see  herders  setting  up  their  windmills ;  engineers 
making  water  levels,  and  railroad  contractors  spinning  their 
threads  of  steel  where  no  man  dreamed  of  living,  and  you 
will  feel  as  you  have  never  felt  before,  and  your  heart  will 
throb  with  the  pride  of  it,  this  splendid  human  energy  and 
patience  and  determination*  F)ere  men  separate  themselves 
from  their  homes,  from  the  society  of  women,  they  suffer 
thirst  and  hardship  and  the  crying  wonder  of  it  all  is  that 
these  are  ordinary  men,  good  and  evil,  weak  and  strong,  who 
have  no  idea  that  they  are  heroic,  who  would  laugh  at  the 
suggestion  that  they  are  more  than  earning  a  living,  making 
a  little  money  for  themselves,  and  hoping  to  make  more  in 
the  future*  ^es!  the  time  has  come  when  humanity  will 
not  tolerate  deserts* 


Chapter  1 1 . 


DOOIJV  IJNTCO  H  MIN6* 

f>6  road  starts  winding  up  a  narrow  valley 
through  the  center  of  which  runs  the  bed  of 
a  creek  that  in  the  spring  of  the  year  or  after 
rain  storms  deserves  the  name  although  at 
present  not  a  drop  of  water  can  be  found 
_  in  it* 

Now  we  come  to  our  first  bouse,  a  miner's  but  and 
finally  a  number  of  one-story  buildings  huddled  together 
and  we  are  at  Statelme.  H  few  general  stores  seem  to  be 
the  center  of  attraction  for  each  has  Its  group  of  men  in 
overalls  and  cowhide  boots  lounging  before  it.  No  matter 
bow  indolent  they  may  appear  each  is  busy  chewing  bis  quid 
of  tobacco  and  somebody  suggested  that  it  was  probably 
the  cud  of  reflection* 

$Qc  continue  through  the  village  and  at  the  extreme  end 
a  fkbrew  has  just  opened  a  small  clothing  store,  not  larger 
than  20  by  30  feet  but  X  presume  that  two  years  after  he 
will  occupy  one  of  the  two  stores  in  the  center  of  the  village 
and  will  have  added  a  general  line  of  merchandise  to  bis 
original  stock  of  goods* 

Clattering  down  the  roadway  come  two  horses  and  as 
they  draw  near  they  pull  off  to  one  side  of  the  road  to  let 
us  pass  by  and  we  discover  that  the  riders  arc  two  Indian 
children,  a  boy  and  a  girl*  Cbey  have  blankets  drawn  around 
their  forms  and  over  their  heads  and  the  black,  sparkling 
eyes  look  furtively  at  us. 

Hcross  the  withers  of  their  horses  they  bad  vessels 
suspended  that  attract  our  attention*  Cbey  arc  well,  almost 
artistically  shaped  and  made  of  withes  and  are  covered  in- 


~  82.  — 

side  and  out  with  resin.  'Cbc  handles  arc  braided  from  the 
long  tailbairs  of  horses.  (Oe  try  to  buy  a  couple  of  these 
primitive  but  ingenious  water  receptacles  but  cannot  induce 
tbe  children  to  part  with  them* 

Che  children  belong  to  tbe  jNawjo  tribe  and  have  ridden 
miles  to  come  thus  far  for  water  which  is  said  to  remain 
cool  and  palatable  for  a  long  time  in  vessels  of  this  de¬ 
scription. 

Sleeks  afterward  we  were  delighted  to  receive  two  of 
the  vessels  from  6verett  who  succeeded  in  buying  them  from 
some  of  the  grown-up  Indians, 

Shortly  after  we  came  across  several  vaquerros,  the 
Spanish  name  for  cattle  drivers  or  cowboys,  Che  people  in 
this  section  have  changed  this  Spanish  name  to  suit  their 
tongues  and  call  them  “Buckeroos”. 

Sle  finally  made  a  steep  ascent  which  taxed  tbe  strength 
of  our  horses  and  pulled  up  at  a  new  building  which  wc  are 
told  is  the  office  and  here  we  arc  to  sleep,  Uncle  frank  and 
X  occupying  a  bed  together, 

Hfter  a  thorough  wasbup  which  removes  the  dust  from 
eyes  and  ears  we  wander  up  among  the  tents  that  constitute 


83  - 


the  Opbir  Mining  Camp  to  the  eating  bouse  and  Uncle  frank 
and  X  sit  down  to  view  the  beauty  of  the  scenic  panorama, 
stretched  out  before  us*  Up  the  center  of  the  valley  a 
tortuous  road  loses  itself  among  the  bills  and  at  our  right 
rises  Government  peak,  one  of  the  highest  peaks  in  these 
mountains. 

presently  Gmma  und  Bverett  appear  on  the  road 
mounted  on  two  bronchos,  Gmma  sitting  astride  as  usual. 
Instead  of  taking  the  path  which  leads  zigzag  up  the 
mountain  they  ride  straight  at  it  and  up  it  and  finally  reach 
the  top,  so  high  up 
that  we  can  scarcely 
distinguish  them.  Cbey 
come  straight  down  as 
they  went  up  and  arrive 
in  time  to  join  us  as 
we  enter  the  eating 
house  which  in  clean¬ 
liness  and  perfect  ap¬ 
pointments  surpasses 
anything  we  might 
have  expected  in  this 
out  of  the  way  place. 

Long  tables  covered 
with  clean,  white  wax 
cloth  are  set  with  clean, 
solid  dishes,  and  bright 
looking,  comely  young 
women  place  before  us 
good,  wholesome, 
palatable  food  and  we 
thoroughly  enjoy  our 
meal,  particularly  as 
we  contrast  it  with  the 
breakfast  bad  at  Modena. 

(He  clambered  up  a  bill,  the  sides  of  which  showed  it 
to  consist  largely  of  small  broken  pieces  of  rock,  a  white 
gray  in  color  which  we  were  told  contained  the  metal  be¬ 
cause  of  which  this  mine  had  been  dug  and  a  mill  built. 


pieces  of  a  dark  gray  hue  were  pointed  out  as  being  most 
valuable  for  silver. 

Nearby  in  a  shed  stands  the  engine  looking  weak  and 
particularly  loose  and  out  of  joint.  H  wire  which  on  its 
appearance  would  have  been  condemned  by  an  elevator 
inspector,  led  to  a  hole  in  the  ground  called  “shaft”.  H 
whistle  from  someone  set  the  engine  in  motion  and  with 
creak  and  groan  there  appears  at  the  surface  what  I  would 
call  an  iron  bucket  with  a  lid  to  it,  but  which  the  bystanding 
miners  pronounce  a  “skip”. 


Going  down  a  mine  is  a  serious  and  solemn  business, 
something  like  getting  married.  X  thought  of  explosions, 
cave-ins,  skip  rope  breaking,  etc.,  and  sat  down  to  think  it 
out  and  will  admit  my  enthusiasm  diminished  rapidly.  CT>e 
sarcastic  urging  of  Qnclc  frank  and  6mma  finally  got  me 
into  a  mental  condition  of  beautiful  indifference  and  when 
Schwarz,  the  big  fat  engineer  of  a  Lake  Superior  coppermine 
who  was  also  a  visitor  clinched  their  argument  by  pronounc¬ 
ing  the  wire  cable  strong  enough  to  hold  a  half  dozen  men, 
X  gave  my  hat  a  vicious  cock  over  the  left  eye,  pointed  my 


—  85 


cigar  to  the  northwest  and  called  for  a  box  which  was  put 
in  the  skip  for  me  to  sit  upon,  and  clambered  in  and  then 
recollected  that  this  was  like  a  trip  to  purgatory  —  tickets 
sold  only  one  way  —  and  felt  like  crawling  out  and  braving 
the  ridicule  and  chaff,  but  a  look  from  Uncle  frank  caused 
me  to  duck  and  beg  the  onlookers  to  close  down  the  cover 
on  me,  which  was  done  and  then  came  the  most  severe  shock 
of  all  when  X  ascertained  that  three  passengers  were  going 
to  stand  on  the  cover,  among  them  the  obese  and  jolly 
Schwarz*  H  whistle,  and  down  we  go  with  a  whirr  and  I 
feel  that  in  a  world  where  men  go  down  into  mines  there  is 
no  time  for  resentment*  Straight  down  three  hundred  feet 
and  through  the  crack  of  my  cage  X  see  lights  flitting  by 
until  we  stop  with  a  sudden  thump  and  X  breathe  a  sigh  of 
relief  as  X  know  we  have  reached  the  bottom*  X  crawl  out 
and  would  not  have  been  surprised  to  see  the  River  Styx 
roll  by* 

Ulc  are  in  a  square  room  say  20  by  20  with  a  miniature 
railroad  track  running  off  to  one  side*  <dhile  waiting  for 
the  rest  of  the  party  X  observe  that  the  air  is  like  JMay  and 
as  my  eyes  grow  accustomed  to  the  dim  light  that  little 
narrow  streets  branch  off  the  room  and  down  one  X  see 
distant  dancing  lights* 

Bcre  comes  our  party  and  with  them  the  mine  boss, 
Capt.  Sammie.  F>c  looks  like  a  highwayman  but  we  find 
out  later  be  is  a  Baptist  deacon  and  plays  the  organ  up  at 
the  big  camp  tent*  Ulc  follow  the  lead  of  the  Captain  and 
wisely  inspect  ceilings  and  walls  until  we  come  to  a  group 
of  men  who  are  loading  a  small  truck,  the  wheels  of  which 
run  on  the  rails  X  bad  seen  in  the  shaft  room* 

Che  Captain  introduces  some  of  these  miners  and  one  of 
them,  bis  face  diffused  with  smiles,  extends  bis  hands  to 
Uncle  frank  with  a  would-be  familiar  or  perhaps  better, 
family  air.  Che  matter  later  appears  simple  when  we  learn 
that  this  is  the  father  of  Katy.  Katy  ?  well,  Katy  is  the 
Belle  of  the  JVKne  and  our  young  friend  Cvcrett  is  accused  of 
having  been  suggestively  friendly  with  Katy,  so  much  so 
that  her  father  felt  himself  as  one  of  our  family  circle  when 
with  us.  Che  young  scamp  hesitatingly  and  blusbingly 


—  86  - 


dentes  the  soft  impeachment  and  bis  father  turns  on  him  a 
sad,  reproachful  loch  but  after  we  had  seen  Katy,  smiling 
and  happy  and  pretty  enough  to  be  remarked  in  any  company, 
the  papa,  who  is  a  connoisseur,  admitted  the  son's  good 
taste,  although  still  questioning  his  judgment. 

<He  keep  on  walking  into  one  stope  and  then  another, 
lose  all  sense  of  direction  and  fairly  bewildered  finally  find 
ourselves  back  in  the  shaft  room. 

X  again  step  into  my  cage,  the  cover  shuts  with  a 
"bang”  and  up  we  go,  slowly,  then  faster  and  stop  with  a 
jerk.  X  step  out  on  the  ground  and  gaze  around,  the  sun 
shines  brightly  and  X  walk  over  to  the  engine  house  and 
greet  the  engineer  as  X  would  a  long  lost  brother. 

me  now  decide  to  visit  the  mill  which  is  placed  on  the 
other  side  of  the  valley  with  a  tramway  leading  to  it  and 

arranged 
for  the 
convenient 
transport¬ 
ation  of 
the  ore 
from  the 
mine  to 
the  mill. 

0>c  mill 
is  almost 
completed 
and  looks 
like  a  large 
plant 
compared 
with  the 
small 
mine. 
Since  then 
it  has 
developed 
that  be¬ 
cause  of 


-  87  - 


lack  of  water  the  mill  can  only  be  operated  for  a  abort  time 
during  each  year  and  it  would  now  seem  as  though  the 
owners  of  the  mine  bad  built  a  boat  before  being  certain 
that  they  had  a  navigable  stream  to  float  it  on. 

We  wander  back  to  the  eating-house  and  then  to  the 
office  where  we  sit  out  on  the  porch  and  in  the  early  part  of 
the  evening  amuse  ourselves  by  firing  with  a  Winchester 
rifle  at  bottles  and  other  tempting  marks.  It  grows  too 
dark  for  further  sport  in  this  direction  and  we  continue 
sitting  out  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  and  observe  the 
myriads  of  stars  that  seem  to  twinkle  within  reach  above 
us.  During  such  starlight  nights  one  best  observes  the 
clearness  of  this  western  atmosphere,  the  heavens  appear  to 
be  fairly  studded  with  jewels. 

JVext  morning,  Sunday,  we  go  up  to  the  eating-house 
for  break¬ 
fast  just  in 
time  to  sit 
down  with 
a  shift  of 
the  miners 
who  have 
concluded 
their  work. 

Hfter  a 
little  we 
wander  up 
among  the 
tents  where 
the  miners 
live  and  on 
looking  into 
the  largest 
one  we  find 
that  it  is  a 
sort  of  an 
assembly 
room.  Hn 
organ 


~  88  — 

stands  on  one  side  but  like  many  other  things  at  the  Ophir 
mine  it  is  out  of  whack* 

<ftc  urge  one  of  the  miners  who  is  said  to  have  a  good 
voice  to  give  us  a  song  which  he  does  and  sings  for  us  a 
spirited  Cornish  air,  “Com  pierce”*  6mma  sings  her 
favorite  Lullaby  song  for  them  and  as  an  encore  sings 
“Baby's  boat,  the  Silver  JMoon”*  Che  applause  she  gets  is 
probably  as  enthusiastic  and  honest  as  she  has  ever  received 
and  X  am  proud  of  the  democratic  spirit  which  she  evinced. 

$He  had  heard  of  a  shooting  affray  which  had  taken 
place  shortly  before  at  the  village  and  got  the  story  from 
the  boys  at  the  mine  who  were  spectators  of  the  drama. 

Some  years  before  a  western  tough  had  drifted  into 
Stateline  who  gave  his  name  as  Com  Bedges  and  shortly 
proved  himself  one  of  those  western  terrors  by  being  handy 
with  his  gun  when  under  the  influence  of  liquor  and  on  days 
when  it  became  known  that  Com  Bedges  was  on  a  spree  the 
sole  street  of  Stateline  was  deserted,  men  talked  in  whispers 
and  women  hushed  their  crying  children  by  threatening  that 
Com  Bedges  would  come  and  on  such  days  he  held  undis¬ 
puted  sway  through  the  village. 

During  the  late  months  of  this  summer  a  stranger  had 
drifted  into  town,  applied  for  work  at  the  mine  and  received 
it.  H  quiet,  unassuming  soft  spoken  man,  who  called  him¬ 
self  Jim  6lendcnning. 

On  a  previous  Sunday  the  boys  had  gathered  and  taken 
up  one  of  their  customary  Sunday  sports,  which  was  that 
of  shooting  at  marks  with  their  revolvers.  Ht  this  play 
Com  Bedges  had  until  now  been  master. 

Glendenning  was  urged  to  take  part  but  declined  with 
the  remark  that  shooting  at  a  stationary  target  was  a 
waste  of  ammunition.  On  being  further  pressed  he  offered 
to  shoot  with  anyone  of  the  crowd  at  a  moving  mark  as 
for  instance  a  can  thrown  into  the  air.  Com  Bedges 
challenged  him  and  the  sport  began.  H  can  was  thrown 
into  the  air  and  Bedges  struck  it  before  it  fell  to  the  ground. 
Hnother  can  was  thrown  up  and  Glendenning  struck  it 
twice  before  it  came  to  earth.  Bedges  viciously  insisted 
upon  another  trial  which  he  essayed  but  failed  tntirely. 


-  89  - 

Cbis  seemed  to  enrage  him  and  he  muttered  that  he  would 
get  even  and  if  it  was  gun  play  that  Glendenning  wanted  he 
should  get  it. 

Che  miners  crowded  around  Glendenntng  and  urged  him 
to  disappear  for  the  day  and  that  over  night  Com  hedges' 
wrath  would  subside.  F)e  refused  to  retreat  and  suddenly 
from  the  edge  of  the  crowd  a  shot  was  fired  which  9truck 
Glcndcnning's  arm.  Che  crowd  parted  and  there  stood 
Hedges,  his  face  inflamed  and  distorted  with  passion. 
Glendenning  instantly  fired  and  before  Hedges  struck  the 
ground  three  more  shots  sounded  and  Com  Hedges  rolled 
lifeless  down  the  incline. 

Glendenning  cooly  put  up  his  gun  and  took  his  depart¬ 
ure  for  the  county  scat  where  he  gave  himself  up  to  the 
sheriff. 

Che  doctors  held  an  autopsy  on  Com  Hedges  and  all 
four  bullets  were  found  to  have  entered  bis  heart. 

Jim  Glendenning  was  still  at  jail  awaiting  bis  trial 
which  was  to  take  place  the  following  week.  Che  miners 
who  told  us  the  story  were  the  witnesses  and  from  what 
we  had  beard  of  western  justice  the  outcome  of  the  trial 
was  not  veiled  in  mystery.  H  few  weeks  later  we  learnt 
that  'Jim  Glendenning  bad  been  promptly  acquitted  amid 
the  acclaim  of  the  populace. 

Hs  we  wish  to  reach  Balt  Lake  City  the  next  morning 
we  soon  take  to  our  democrat  wagon  and  follow  the  road 
back  that  we  bad  come  over.  Cde  bad  well  laden  baskets 
filled  with  lunch  and  when  the  shadows  grew  long,  stopped 
alongside  of  our  dried  up  creek,  put  our  satchels  upon  the 
ground  for  tables,  used  the  seats  of  the  wagon  for  chairs 
and  drew  out  our  lunch  which  we  were  told  was  to  consist 
of  two  baked  chickens  but  every  dive  into  the  lunch  basket 
brought  forth  another  leg  and  a  fair  count  at  the  end  showed 
that  our  two  chickens  had  been  blessed  with  the  unusual 
number  of  nine  legs,  but  some  good  sweet  bread  and  liberal 
slices  of  cocoanut  cake  washed  down  with  fairly  cool,  amber 
colored  liquid  made  us  a  most  satisfactory  meal. 

JuQt  as  we  bad  about  finished,  a  short  bowl  attracted 
our  attention  and  there  stood  a  lean,  gaunt  looking  coyote 


-  90  — 


watting  for  uq  to  depart  so  that  he  might  voraciously  gulp 
down  the  bones  and  crumbs  that  we  had  left,  but  as  soon 
as  he  perceived  that  we  had  noticed  his  presence  he  slunk  off 
into  the  sage  brush  and  one  is  certainly  reminded  that  this 
is  the  Xshmaelite  among  animals* 

Che  sun  is  gone  down  and  darkness  falls  over  the  land¬ 
scape*  H  sharp  turn  brings  a  fire-lit  camp  into  full  view* 
!>ere  are  the  workmen,  resting  for  the  night,  who  have  been 
working  on  the  water  pipe  for  the  railroad  tank  at  Modena. 
Uleird  figures  they  are,  and  it  would  not  take  much  of  a 
stretch  of  imagination  to  transform  this  into  a  camp  of 
gypsies,  as  the  canvas  covers  of  the  outfit  are  drawn  up  at 
one  side. 

me  continue  on  and  as  we  come  into  the  plains  there 
low  down  on  the  horizon  is  a  most  beautiful  new  moor. 
Never  have  X  seen  the  crescent  so  sharply  outlined  as  on  this 
occasion* 

me  arrive  at  Modena  and  shortly  afterward  our  train 
comes  thundering  along  and  we  are  soon  in  our  berths  sound 
asleep  while  the  “iron  horse”  sweeps  us  along  to  our  goal, 
Salt  Lake  City* 

<He  are  met  at  the  depot  by  Cfftnger  and  Jeffs,  the 
latter  a  young  graduate  of  the  Michigan  University*  Chcy 
take  us  out  for  a  drive  through  the  residence  streets  of  Salt 
Lake  City  and  during  the  ride  X  have  an  opportunity  to 
closely  scan  our  friend  Bffinger  who  had  been  a  clerk  in  the 
Lake  Superior  mining  region  and  bad  drifted  to  Salt  Lake 
City  where  for  some  time  be  bad  been  trying  his  hand  and 
luck  at  various  pursuits  but  had  at  last  succeeded  in  getting 
afloat  by  promoting  mince. 

Fjis  fingers  were  covered  with  rings,  sparkling  with 
diamonds,  bis  necktie  was  embellished  by  a  large  gold 
nugget  and  a  regular  cable  watch  chain  adorned  bis  vest  and 
when  be  finally  stopped  where  some  children  were  playing 
and  called  a  little  boy  to  the  side  of  the  carriage  and  intro¬ 
duced  him  to  us  as  his  son  every  member  of  our  party  had 
difficulty  in  repressing  a  smile,  for  the  little  chap  still  wore 
the  pants  of  two  weeks  ago,  which  was  just  about  the  time 
that  papa  6ff inger  bad  struck  it  rich*  Both  seat  and  knees 


9t  — 


were  adorned  with  carefully  put  on  patches  and  when 
Bffmgcr  with  a  wave  of  his  hand  pointed  to  a  large  stately 
looking  house  with  a  great  portico,  with  the  remark,  "Chis 
is  the  home  that  X  have  just  bought”  X  could  no  longer 
repress  my  merriment.  It  was  too  good  an  example  of  a 
<Qcstern  miners  life  to  allow  it  to  pass  unnoticed. 

Bffinger  now  took  us  to  a  swell  cafe  where  a  most 
elaborate  luncheon  was  served  us.  fie  presented  6mma 
with  a  large  bouquet  of  Hmerican  Beauties  and  when, 
during  the  meal,  he  was  told  that  she  had  ridden  up  Govern¬ 
ment  peak  on  the  black  horse  at  the  mine,  he  was  most 
astonished  at  her  temerity  and  asserted  that  few  men  would 
dare  to  mount  his  horse  "Danger”  and  to  give  expression  to 
his  admiration,  he  drew  his  gold  nugget  pin  from  his  scarf 
and  presented  it  to  her  as  a  token  of  his  appreciation  of  her 
equestrianship. 

Che  day  passed  and  in  the  afternoon  we  go  to  the  depot 
escorted  by  our  Salt  Lake  City  friends. 

Uncle  frank  and  Bverett  bid  one  another  a  fond  adieu, 
for  while  we  are  hurrying  back  over  Colorado  Springs, 
Denver,  Kansas  City,  St.  Louis,  to  Detroit,  Sverctt  is  going: 

"Back  to  the  mines”. 


/ 


- - - - - 

HEROLD  PRESS 
. DETROIT . 


I 


